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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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So, I emailed my friend John some info. about few routes I was interested in for a trip to Zion. John had never been to Zion before, and I had ventured a couple of times the past year. He replied, "Cool, I don't have time now to look at any routes. Just pick whatever you think looks like fun (not a chossy nightmare) and I'll do it."
"Ok, word".......allllllriiiiiigghhht!!!
IdiOdyssey shares the first 2 1/2 pitches with Swoop Gimp and then goes left taking the most obvious crack system to the top. It's quality rock for the most part and a great adventure. This wall is the next major wall right of Moonlight Buttress. I ended up nailing only 5 pins total (3 at the top of P5 and 2 starting the crack on P8). If I did it again, I would only bring a very small selection of pins for hand placing, no hammer. Mabey someone has already done it clean?
Arrrrrghhhh........buuurrrrrrrrrrrr.........
Anyone know who this guy is? It looked like a giant ant with a bee ass that somewhat resembled a beetle. I'm goin' for "Bantle".
The route. Swoop Gimp goes right.
Here we go.........
John flows effortlessly up the 5.7 on P1 like a true master. The first few hundred feet go up such aesthetic rock......lovin' those streaks!
P2, beautiful, long, sustained thin nutting.
Gettin' up there!
A keen eye will spot a soloist on Desert Shield.
P2, one of the few cams I got in on the pitch......it was a good one.
Getting into the wide section on P2.
P3. This is John's first aid lead on Zion rock. "Wait, I'm leading this pitch? "Yep, here, take all these little nuts and get your ass up there!" He cruised it.............just like P1...........just like P1.
Please don't fall.
Getting dark......nice job bro!
This is how I roll. Someone should teach me how to make a hanging stove. Any way you do it, a fresh cup of Yerba Matte can't be beat! (Big Wall Tip: though somewhat ghetto, a shoe provides excellent stability for a small fuel canister) :-)
That long right facing corner is dubbed "The Fragile Sea". It was my favorite pitch.
Pulling the roof on P4.
Looking at the first half of "The Fragile Sea", pitch 5. It checked in at about 190'. The upper section of the pitch was spectacular (not in photo) ------similar climbing to P2 but slightly more tricky.
Starting the long battle..........I clipped the anchor 3 1/2 hours later.
John confirms, "it looks good bro", "arrrghhh.....go get er!" P7
Yee Haw!
John cranks P7.
Yikes! What's in that dark hole? John was afraid of being eaten by this thing so he chose the left variation.
I like the contrast in the rock in this photo.
Cleaning P7...............literally.
Didn't expect to find a place like this up there!
Ahhhh.....shade.
Afro Ledge traverse, P8.
P8.
John gets after it cleaning P8. Upward blows son!
Funk! See the dust?
This was the best ass shot we had. I think it works well with the blinding sun.
John leads the way on P9.
Cool varnish.
P10, last pitch, yes soft.
Trash we picked up on route.
John's turn to carry the piggy. Utopo!
Parting shot......
Thanks for viewing! It's a fantastic route and the first wall John and I climbed together.
Brian S.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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And a High five to you guys ....
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Nov 28, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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Cool trip, thanks for posting up! That insect is called a Jerusalem Cricket.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 28, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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nice dude!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Nov 28, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Good work!
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Nov 28, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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Absolutely splendid trip report. I appreciate the little details you noticed along your journey. Thanks!
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 28, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Great TR! Looks like some sweet pitches!
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Double D
climber
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Nov 28, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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Sweet!
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Nov 28, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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NICE
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Nov 28, 2008 - 09:52pm PT
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Damn I gotta get my ass out there! Great photos Brian.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Nov 28, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Started this read expecting something else, as my partner--also named John, hence my confusion--did the second ascent of IdiOdyssey. Can't recall if he did it fully clean, but I think he might have. He told me there is some real serious climbing on that sucker, so good for you guys! Well done. Thanks for the TR.
Brian
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 28, 2008 - 10:18pm PT
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Kick AZZ TR. Proud as Hell!!!
Thin as F&@K!!!
Please don't fall pic is frightening!!! Looking at that "getting wide..." shot is just plain sadistic!
Must have been exciting as heck.
Thanks for the photos
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Nov 28, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Great Job guys! Briguy: How many bolts did the belay at the top of pitch 5 (the 190') have? The rock was a bit soft there and I was hoping a 3rd had been added. What was your pin count?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Nov 29, 2008 - 12:07am PT
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Good work BriGuy!(& John)....I Think A Bantle is a better name than Jerusalem cricket.
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Nov 29, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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Cool TR, nice job guys.
J
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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More Air --- there were 2 bolts at the top of 5.
Don't know exactly what you mean by pin count. All the bolts/drilled angles that were on the topo seemed to be there (don't have an exact count). As far as nailing, 5 total (3 on P5 and 2 on P8).
Nice job with this one Mr. Smoot!
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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Jerusalem Cricket, also known as a potato bug. They bore these little conical holes into potatoes, much different than the bite marks you notice from gophers when you pull your potatoes for the year.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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My big wall trip for the day.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Nov 30, 2008 - 08:14am PT
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cool to see photos of the whole route, but especially the 2nd pitch. I went to zion in march 1989 w/ MAD on a spring break trip. We spied the line from the parking area at the base of space shot. MAD the first pitch then I got the 2nd. (he backed off of the 3rd 2 times). I had hours and hours of cleaning for every pin placement as the crack was filled with smutz. I think I placed LA's 27 times (lowered and backcleaned) and only placed a few other pieces. I had spool cut 180' ropes (novel for the time) and went to what I thought was 170'. MAD meticulously correctly cleaned all the pins coming up for the night. Looks like it has some scars now. In the photo shots "getting into the wide section" the crack had a 4-5' column in the crack I had to clean on lead (above head). Good thing the route is steep.
We bailed the next day and Alan and Barry came up a few years later to finish "the gimp".
Hats off to a fine trip report!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 08:53am PT
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Fun thread. That is a Mormon Cricket.
ph
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