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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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There are 2 new routes at The Spires. The one on the backside of Upper Spire is the old TR Harrison's Direct. It has a different second half up the shallow seam. The route Thanksgiving starts up Stepping Stone and pulls out around the arete at 25 feet. It then follows the line of weakness to what is the first belay of Desparado. Nice sunny warm up
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 11, 2008 - 10:43am PT
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The spires are great. Any pics?
Zander
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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Nice. But i think that a friend of mine climbed your first one, the one on the west side of the upper spire, back in the year 2000. A friend, Dave Lowery from Placerville, took me there way back in the day. He pointed a route out to me, crack to bolts, that he had cleaned up a bit and sent a few weeks earlier. A few weeks after that, i led it too.
I remember it being an easier crack, to a harder short set of face moves at about 11a. The upper half was the old .11 Harrison TR i think. could maybe find a pic. Just to the left of Crispy Critters.
Could totally be wrong though, will check my guidebook.
Either way, right on! The spires are an awesome spot, and I am surprised that more people dont come up that way.
Keep up the new routing!
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NML81
Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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I was just flipping through the guidebook for Spires last night, hoping to go there this weekend. Thanks for the update.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2008 - 01:16am PT
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Yes, I climbed with Dave Lowery several times (seems like he fell off the edge of the Earth?). I pretty sure he was with me when I either tr'd it or bolted and led it. This is essentially the same route but after leaving the ledge one went through the crux and and worked left to the long established rap anchor. Instead this tackles the seam that goes up and slightly right to a diferent anchor. The left route can still be led but I will probably remove the last bolt as it clutters the face and the old Harrison Tr can still be Tr'd. The line as it is now is a more natural line of weakness to it's own anchor. It is also substantially harder. I would suggest 12a to onsight, but we'll see what others have to say. Great fun to play on for a nice late afternoon work out.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Petch was pointing out that Jay Sell and Larry Duin climbed this way back. It's a pretty obvious line and It would not surprise me if it was lead long ago. I lead it without the bolt (for it's worth). I came back, cleaned it up, added the bolt (for the 5.9 leader) and an anchor, and gave it a name (it was lead by me on Thanksgiving 07). It's a nice sunny warm up or better start to Desperado. Should someone want to correct the history, rename the route or remove the bolt, feel free. It's of no consequence
It's pretty fun
Regards
A
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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