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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2005 - 06:34pm PT
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I'm talking about a team of two with a lightish bag. I'm guessing the second would do the actual haul, but I don't really know.
One of you speed demons hook a brother up.
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 07:13pm PT
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Several ways of which I doubt mine is best. (but here it is anyway)
1. Leader completes pitch, hauls up the slack in lead line and fixes lead line.
2. Take up slack in haul line, then thread through haul device.
3. Leader places enough tension on haul system so that second can free bag.
4. Leader begins climbing next pitch with self belay.
5. Second cleans pitch and then hauls bag. (The second may need to tag up gear to the leader or give leader more slack in lead line prior to or while hauling.)
6. Second places leader on belay.
I would love to hear how others accomplish this.
If the bag is truely light then the second could jug with it while cleaning
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timmy_t
Trad climber
Fort Fun, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
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Just make sure that the bag won't get stuck. If it has potential, then have the leader pull up slack and fix lead line and haul. Once bag is at the anchors or away from the snags then the leader can short fix.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 24, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
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Superb application for the Far End Hauler. That way if the pig gets stuck, the cleaner can haul the pig from the pig.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 25, 2005 - 12:54am PT
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I think WC nailed it...two minor coments though, which are fairly obvious:
Probly smart in Step 2 to add a back up knot in the haul line to the leaders new anchor to back that haul bag up. Would suck to be leading and have something slip on you!
Also, don't forget in Step 4 that the leader must keep trailing the slack on the haul line to tag gear and continue hauling at the next anchor. Second must not forget to send the hauler up with the tag load. This includes hauling before tagging, which could slow the leader down. Forget either of these and you may have effectively screwed yourself.
On less then vertical terrain I'd say it's more effecient for the second to just cary the pack if it's not to heavy...based on my limited experince. On the steeps forget it, haul that sucker.
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Mar 25, 2005 - 01:14pm PT
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if your speed demoning, why would you have a pig that heavy?
saw russ, eric et al... back in 98. team of three...
leader pulls up slack in both. tensioning haul line. 2nd climber hops on pig rope and is lowered out. 3rd climber cleans pitch. Scary watching jugger on loaded haul line. seemed to work well for them.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Mar 28, 2005 - 12:59am PT
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I usually haul and short fix the way WC explained. Only on technical big wall routes where you need to bring all that gear. The second hauls and unless you're in free climbing terrain, the leader usually will not lose too much ground while the second takes five to ten minutes hauling the pig.
There IS a few factors, however. The bags getting stuck is one of them. I'll have to say, I have never gotten a light bag stuck. You can usually whip it around just about any obstacle with enough energy... I mean frustration. Usually, it's the really heavy pigs that are hard to free-up while hauling. Just look out for loose features!
Ok, another issue. You have to decide if the bag is worth taking or if you're truly going to blaze that route and just go with your water clipped to your harness or in a light pack. It boils down to being confident in your ascent and realistic in your abilities.
If you're trying to go for the first one day ascent of "Route X", and it’s 20+ pitches. You're probably going to want to haul. If you've been on the Captain for a few seasons and want to try Lurking Fear in a push.... well, you might want to go with a pack and forget about hauling. If you're doing your "X" lap on The Nose in a day..... well, you get the idea....
I guess, it's all about saving you're energy for ascending the rock..... one thing I DO know, is it's REALLY hard to clean with a moderate sized pack, while you're cleaning dicy gear... for too many pitches in a row. You're energy will get drained fast - especially if you didn't eat and drank beer all day.... um, and night :)
Unless, you're an ANIMAL..... or a machine!
GO GET EM!!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 28, 2005 - 02:54am PT
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If there is a significant chance the bag will get stuck, it's probably worth having the leader haul. If the cleaning is so technical, or the second is so inexperienced, that there's still plenty of time left after hauling, then the leader can still resume climbing solo after hauling.
One advantage to this is that the leader can get any extra gear for the next pitch via the haulbag.
Peace
karl
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