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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2005 - 11:58am PT
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Apparently there was someone on Prodigal SOn during this last rain spell, YIKES. This is no good for anyone, as sandstone is vary breakable when wet. If you climb here in the rain you will very likely do irreversible damage to the route. And it is very likely if you take a digger that all your pieces will blow.! SOOOOOO, don't climb in zion when it rains (colorado boy)! Damaging the routes in this way ensures that we will not have the trade routes for our children. OOOOHHH the children.?
If you know who this colorado kid is then give em a talking to.
Brad post some waterfall shots of Zion.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Feb 24, 2005 - 01:38pm PT
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i bet that exit pitch was fun while wet
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jean
Trad climber
Cardiff-by-the-Sea
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Feb 24, 2005 - 04:23pm PT
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Rain in Zion?? It never rains in ZION! :)
(says the girl who spent an entire summer getting rained on, always 2 or 3 pitches up, and with a clear forecast...)
And it's not just the route you need to worry about - breaking things off does bad things to your person!
-jean (fondly remembering the summer of my discontent)
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Jedi
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 24, 2005 - 07:30pm PT
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What a boner!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Feb 24, 2005 - 07:36pm PT
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You post in the Zion thread to talk about your boner? I don't understand....
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 01:47am PT
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Jedi put it away!!!!!!!
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StyMingersfink
climber
the 51st state.... denial
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:38pm PT
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That was probably me. I was in zion for a WFR class, since we only had one day off in the ten days I was there, It was not a serious effort, just a chance to enjoy a day out. It had quit raining late saturday night, partly cloudy on sunday, so monday i figured a bolt ladder would do no harm.
I was definitely in a ginger sort of mood when placing gear above the DA's, and felt good enough about the condition of the rock to progress to the rappell anchor above the first roof. I got a bit of a late start on monday, rolling out of bed around ten, getting to the base around the crack of noon. After futzing around on the first pitch as long as I did, I knew I would reach the rap anchors about dark, so I went for it.
Rapped off, went to the cabin for dinner and turned in. Went back couple of days later to pull my ropes. Went well overall, offering a chance for someone to learn some of the particular frustrations of jugging line.
Daniel (the Swedish Chef) was a quick study, rapidly learning the value of having a little bit of weight on the loose end of the line, free-hanging jugging, and jugging over roofs.
Also provided me the opportunity to try Ron's high-stepping technique outlined in his Clean Walls video. Works pretty well, all the better because I had forgotten my fifi-hook and knee pads. First time I've climbed with 3 single ladders too, having preferred paired sets of ladders. Jury's still out which way ladder set-up I prefer however.
I concurr with the apprehension of ripping pieces in such soft rock too. It was forefront in my mind the whole time, causing me to progress slower than usual. Much slower. It sure was good to get out and enjoy the sun that day though.
edit: oops. Prodigal SUN... I meant t-stone. STFU, Sty. and pay attention next time.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2005 - 02:51pm PT
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Hey is the fixed RURP still under the roof??? Usually it is good form to stay off the rock fer like 48 hrs to let it dry but after this last massive series of stors it may demand more time, T stone is the most S facing route in the park so will likely dry out faster than other routes.
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Carl
Trad climber
West Bountiful, Utah
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Feb 26, 2005 - 11:16pm PT
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Clustiere asked about the RURP on Touchstone Wall Zion. James Taylor and I climbed Touchstone earlier this month (Febuary 2005)and I posted some comments and a few pictures on www.utahclimbers.com. The thread for Touchstone has three pages and you will need to clicks the links to see all pages. Hope you enjoy the post.
http://www.utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=851
As always climb safely.
Carl ...
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