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Pin
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 19, 2002 - 06:35pm PT
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Anyone been there? What's it like?...can't find decent beta, and I'd like to get some feedback from anyone who has climbed there.
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DS
Novice climber
San Rafael, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2002 - 08:15pm PT
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What do you mean you couldn't find any beta. All the routes are in the BayArea guide. There's only one that I know of. You can find it at any climbing gym or outdoor store in the Bay Area. Oh...btw...Stinson Beach only has bouldering. Are you talking about Mickey's Beach(just south of Stinson Beach)?
Most of the routes there are 11+. I suspect the best routes are actually the 5.13's which are way out of my league so I can't tell you much about them. Nancy is a fun 5.12a. For some reason Stinson Beach has always been a bit intimidating to me. I don't know if it's the crashing surf and salt spray covered rock or what but I've never climbed well there. I think that if you are a solid 5.12+ or 5.13 climber you will have much more fun than I do when I climb there.
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Francis
Intermediate climber
sf
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Aug 20, 2002 - 02:26am PT
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Get the aformentioned book. There is a leadable .8 and 2 5.10's and on up. The south west corner can be TR if you are not up to 5.12's because it is only the last move that is of that grade. Use the anchor at the topof the rock to rap down to the top of the route. It can be tricky to find, but worth the trouble to climb over crashing waves. Make sure the tide is low or going out.
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DS
Novice climber
San Rafael, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 10:29am PT
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I just remembered...there's also a short 5.9 on the Egg which is further down the beach. There's also a 10 and an 11(with difficult bouldery start) on that rock.
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Pin
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 02:09pm PT
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Ok...I was lazy. I meant I couldn't find decent beta on the web. Checked out climbingbayarea.com and I guess that's what threw me off. I thought it was all at Stinson...I guess I'm thinkin' of Mickey's Beach. Thanks folks... I'll definitely check those routes out. I'm a little curious as to the rock consistency there, as my experience with the bay coastal lithology leads me to believe it is nearly always loose incohesive melange.
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Matt
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 03:37pm PT
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The rock at Mickey's & Stinson is solid.
The climbing is very condition dependent.
There will be an Adopt-a-Cragg day out there in Sept., might be a good time to get some beta.
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TG
Intermediate climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 03:53pm PT
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Stinson Beach, Mickeys Beach and The Egg are all worth
checking out, even for a novice climber, although
there is not alot of stuff in the easier range. I think the best spot for beginners (up to 5.9) IMO is Stinson as
there is lots of fun moderate bouldering.
Other mellow lines are the 5.9 slab on the mountain side
of the Egg, which is beside a short 5.6 arete
(there is another route on the ocean side that also looked pretty mellow, but I haven't gotten on it).
At Mickeys Beach there is a 5.9 line whose name alludes
me just to the left of "Walkin a thin Line" 5.10c/d.
The two guides for these areas are the much maligned
Bay Area Rock, and the newly released Chockstone Press (Falcon)book on climbing in the san francisco bay area.
I haven't looked at the latter book, but the fomer is
quite reasonable for these area.
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DS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 04:22pm PT
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I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the Falcon Bay Area guide is the same thing...just repackaged. The topo drawings are identical(and crappy) if memory serves.
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AB
Intermediate climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2002 - 05:24pm PT
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Actually, there is an updated Bay Area Rock guide and the new Falcon book. The Falcon book is probably the most detailed and accurate.
Do check out the Egg for the 10c if you're up to it. It's both well protected and fairly easy for the grade after the first few bolts. Oh, and consider bringing a stick clip if you're not opposed to using one.
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