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| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
cbursey
Trad climber
westminster, MD
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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Im considering moving to oregon in august, but I need to know how the climbing is there before I consider it. If anyone could give me an honest interpretation of how the climbing is there I would greatly apperciate it. I am mostly interested in single and multi-pitch trad routes. Also, how is the weather, and does it really rain all the time like everyone says? I would be moving to Eugene because thats where the school that my girl friend would be going to, but i told her if there wasnt good climbing I wouldnt go. I know its two hours from smith rock, but Ive only ever heard of this as a sport climbing destination. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 29, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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There is trad at Smith as well, but most all of the climbing around Eugene outside of Wolf Rock is bolts on choss. And rain? It's Oregon, and Eugene is essentially completely soggy Nov-Apr. And getting over the mountains to climb at Smith when the weather sucks can often be dicey business even if you are good at driving in snow and ice.
In general, I'd say you better really love this girl if you are moving to Eugene for her at the expense of your climbing. But if you do move out give me a shout and come up to PDX to climb with me.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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Apr 29, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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Dude, climbing aside, Eugene is an awesome town. THE friendliest and wierdest (in a good way) people I have ever met. I went to college there (UO) and life is easy.
Climbing? Sandstone at the Callahans, sport on andesite at Flagstone, bouldering at the garden etc.
There is trad climbing in-town at the columns. Even if it's only 40ft. high.
edit: oh, and wolf rock is on the chossy side, but it is Oregon's tallest monolith and has some true adventure climbing.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Apr 29, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
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skinner butte...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 29, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Slam some hands during your lunch break....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 30, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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WOLF ROCK!!!
BARAD DUR is a super awesome climb! At least it was back when it was quiet and lonesome up there.
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Brew Monkey
Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
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Apr 30, 2008 - 03:11am PT
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Eugene, not so much. Classic Eugene style: "whats mine is yours and whats yours is mine; I ain't got sh#t, what do you got"
Na, Eugene is ok. Not as cool as PDX and not as adventurous as Bend. Good school though. We opened an OSU extention at COCC here in Bend if that is an option for your girl. There is good climbing here and don't believe that Smith is just a sport area, yes we have alot of sport, but get off the beaten path and Smith offers so much more. Trad and adventure for sure, I may get razzed for this but there is a route in the Marsupials called Delerium Tremons (SP) that is Yosemite quality liebacking! Smith is 2 hours over the hill, no big deal from Eugene. Hippie's suck.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 30, 2008 - 07:36am PT
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Brew Monkey, do you work for Gary Fish at the brewery?
Gary was a year behind me in school and his brother Steve, a year ahead of me, was my climbing buddy in high school. Boy we had some adventures, like the time in 1972 Steve and I tripped on mescaline at Lover's Leap, trying to climb Corrugation Corner in the snow (we bailed), or when Gary, Steve, Andy Turner and I hiked into the Palisades back in 1973, only for Steve and I to be turned back about 100 feet from North Pal's summit due to icey rock, poor light and poor weather.
If you see Gary, please say hello for me.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 30, 2008 - 08:10am PT
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Definitely, Smith has much more than sport.
BITD trad and aid was all there was, and there was a lot of it.
Get off the beaten path, get away from the dihedrals on the weekend.
Talk about getting away from it all, head up to Wombat and do Santiam Highway Ledges and do the ridge to the top.
Best views at Smith!!
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Apr 21, 2016 - 09:05am PT
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Bump.
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