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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 20, 2005 - 01:46pm PT
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I am looking to solo Spaceshot next monday and I can't figgure out howmany cams to bring above #1 camalot. Any info would be of great use. I had a terrable experience on this route 5 yrs ago we climbed it but the company was bad, the dynamic was bad, and it was bad. SO I am hoping to redeme that experience and do it solo in a day. I am also wondering if the second pitch is OW or fist I don't remember anything. Has the 3 flared pods cruz gotten worse? Thanks for your recollections!
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Jan 20, 2005 - 01:50pm PT
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The second 5.10 pitch at the top is #2 camalot the whole way, with maybe a spot or two for a 3 or 3.5. Bigger than that, it just depends on how comfortable you are freeing without it. I don't recall needing bigger than that for the places where most people aid. Second pitch climbed more like facey chimney with a bit of ow maybe? Not especially hard and there is other pro besides the wide, but wide could certainly get used.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Jan 20, 2005 - 01:57pm PT
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Clustiere,
I recall not having enough camalots in the #2 and #3 range for the last pitch or two to Earth Orbit ledge. I believe these pitches go free at 5.10 but I aided it all. Do bring something bigger than #1's. Blast it, cause Earth Orbit sucks to sleep on!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 20, 2005 - 02:35pm PT
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clustiere, please provide a trip report when you are done. I was considering that for my first solo. I was gonna be on it Monday as well ;-) but being the nice guy I am I think I wait until March. Actually, if nothing else, a rack report is all I'm really looking for.
ENJOY!!! the weather looks stellar!!!!
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Jan 20, 2005 - 03:44pm PT
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The 5.10 cracks near the top offer such bomber placements that leap frogging the same size cams is not too scary. I think we had 3 each of the #1 and #2 Camalots and 2 each of the #3 but a bolder climber probably doesn't need to triple up like we did.
It's so much fun at the top of that route! Too bad I'm a wuss when it comes to climbing out of the aiders. Looked like stellar free climbing.
ps. I don't need any comments about the closely spaced gear thank you very much. Part of it is the angle of the photo but it was also the first aid climbing I'd ever done in my life and I wasn't stepping up high enough. I quickly ran out of gear and learned that leap frogging cams was the only way to go anyway.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Jan 20, 2005 - 03:54pm PT
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Did it in Nov. and the party in front of us freed that last pitch. Well, the sixth, I guess. Took them like ten minutes, and took us like two hours. Whatever.
That last pitch is nearly all #3s. We had four and it felt about right for aiding. Adjust as necessary for how ballsy you're feeling. Nothing bigger than 3 needed.
Days are short. If you don't know where the raps are you'll never find them in the dark. Maybe I'll yell over to tell you where they are--I'll be on the Shield!
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2005 - 09:20pm PT
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Thanks yall, nature you don't have to wait for me. The shield sounds good youll have to do a TR as I plan to do it in a month or to and would love to hear about it..
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2005 - 09:23pm PT
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SO what Im hearing is 3-4 of the #2-3 size and one 3.5 and 4, si??????
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Jan 20, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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Sounds about right. David's gorgeous pic doesn't even do that crack justice. The two '5.10' pitches (first one is a sandbag!) are good reasons to go with a partner if you can grab one!
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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