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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2005 - 02:57pm PT
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Have any of you read this little paperback from Ament? A friend just passed it to me, and I haven't read past the intro (which is quite good). In the past, I haven't really liked his writing much, or maybe just his attitude, but this seems pretty good to me. A lot of dry humor is what I've seen so far, but he is very serious about what he writes.
Just wondering
B
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dmitry
Trad climber
Chita, Russia
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Jan 19, 2005 - 03:16pm PT
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I read this a while back.
I truly appreciated the detailed strategy for climbing "Crack of Fear"...
Enjoy!
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Jan 19, 2005 - 06:58pm PT
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Interesting little pamphlet. Ament is a trip.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Jan 19, 2005 - 07:40pm PT
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Yeah, that was me, dude. Careful what you say about the big man--he might come after you. Jody's in love with him.
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Gnat
climber
Smell A
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Jan 19, 2005 - 09:21pm PT
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Ament is one of a kind. Once an excellent climber, he never suffered from humility. Some would say he was plagued by an excess of self importance. Maybe he was just insecure.
His accomplishments, of which there were many...(hard routes, some important books [Master of Rock]) were unfortunately overshadowed by his pomposity. If you got the impression that Bachar was aloof and self absorbed, Ament must have been the role model. Although clearly highly intelligent, he never seemed to live up to his potential.
He has also turned out more trash climbing literature (as well as some real gems) than almost anyone. With a title like this latest book, it seems he is reaching for a new low point. Ament eventually became marginalized.
A tragic figure in an almost comic sense.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Jan 19, 2005 - 11:55pm PT
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I've met and climbed with a few good climbers, and none of them were pompous or arrogant or puffed up.
It's kind of hard to undrestand how being even a great climber could lead to much puffery, since after all, climbing is mostly a hobby. OR a religion.
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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2005 - 01:14pm PT
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Gnat-
the book in question is actually old, I believe, and is mostly right on, like, (paraphrase)" a master climber does not turn his back on the weather. He also doesn't invest emotionally in a climb. If he has to back off of it, he does, and he won't think less of himself for it and he'll come back when he's up for the grade. A master climber realizes that taking risks is his own choice, but it shouldn't be a choice he makes for his partner, so he is always as safe as possible, just shy of trying to be so safe that he is dangerous..." - that kind of stuff. And he says that a master climber doesn't have a whole lot to do with grade at which you climb, it's a mentality, an awareness, and you can find it in 5.10 climbers, etc...
Actually, so far it's a good read that I would recommend
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