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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 7, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
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I am trying to be like one of my (many) heros John Gill and holler at a one arm lever and a one arm pullup. Are real climbers (poser here) still talkin about the benefits of gymnastic workouts to further their climbing abilities or is it all campus and climb now?
I built myself a set of paralletes for 20 somethin bucks for planche progression and I heated up some PVC and bent them into circles for still rings. These idears came from crossfit.com.
I built a mini campus board too with the biggest rungs metolious offered. I feel like a sucker bc they ain't really nothin but 1 1/2" slats, slightly incurved for extreme poser status. Anyway, Yay or Nay for gymnastic training?
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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If nothing else, the one-arm and f-lever are great party tricks.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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Dang. Mine are 1 1/4" PVC 6" tall by 18" long with little 4" legs on a tee. Those are nice but mine were cheaper I think.
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Speaking of crossfit, the Oakland and Berkeley climbing gyms are offering crossfit classes. See http://crossfiteastbay.com for info and schedules. Took one last night. Excellent workout.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Anybody remember Hermanno from Mexico when he spent the summer in the Valley? Besides teaching us the useful Spanish "Chupa mi Heuvos", he also would do the one-finger pull ups on demand in the Camp 4 gym (when the gym was still at site 26 in the middle of Camp 4).
Along with Dave Altman, Hermanno was known as the "strongest man alive".
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I saw a hilarous vhs climbing video where a serious announcer(who called chalk magnesium) was commenting on a group of climbers attempting a hard problem. The announcer says something like "if Hermanno, the strongest man on the scene, can't do it, no one can".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Somewhere out there, is vintage footage of Hermanno and Johnny Woodward doing climbs in Yos.
In the feature, Woody slots nuts into Butterballs, leading effortlessly, and he is so poised while putting in the gear he may as well be standing on flat ground.
I think Tales of Power might be in that one too.
Werner said Herman, due to his awsome application of power, would one day explode.
Woody don't need no stinking guns, but just imagine his performance with a gymnastic physique.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The highlight, for me of that video was JW hanging from his toes at the brink of Seperete Reality to chalk up.
Hermann and Kauk passed us on the Rostrum when we were doing the the thin crack on Blind faith (they were on the reg); Yeah that guy was Stong! By the time we got to the top they were long gone...
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Definitely doesn't have a whole lot of climbing application, but I've been working (half-assed) on a planche too. Just looks so damn impressive. But, I've been doing my progressions flat on the ground and the wrists suffer terribly! So, been thinking about slapping together some paralletes. Here's an easy recipe for those interested:
Supplies
One PVC pipe 10 feet, 1 1/2" diameter
Four elbow connectors
Four T-joint connectors
Eight end caps
PVC pipe glue
Construction
Cut the 10 foot pipe into the following sections:
Two 2 foot sections
Four 8 inch sections
Eight 5 inch sections
If you've done it right, there should be no leftover pipe
The 5 inch sections are the feet, the 8 inch sections are the vertical legs, and the 2 foot sections are the part where your hands go. Take a look at the picture and it's pretty easy to figure out where everything goes.
Identity-theft Edit: That's NOT me in the photo. I believe it's Jim Bathurst of BeastSkills.com
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nice planche!
Here's an old pic of the Tuolumne Rescue site with Ron Peers doing an L-cross on our officially measured Olympic ring set up. Ron could also do a perfect Butterfly mount - very impressive to see.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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gotta like the keg in the background. What are the other 2 canisters?
Prod.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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As I sip my Johnnie Walker Red, I ponder if a guy who has 3 empty kegs in his gym doesn't have a drinking problem...
Hope there is a cold full one out of the picture, no problem then.
Prod.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Gymnastics. Totally beneficial to climbing in countless ways and on endless levels. Gill was much larger physically than most, if not all, the one-finger people I knew. His weight simply made it a more significant achievement, to do a one-finger pull-up, or a one-arm front lever, or to climb a rope to the top of a gym in a few seconds. In my own experience as a university gymnast in the late 1960s, it always seemed easier for the lean flyweights to learn the difficult gymnastic moves. But Gill also balanced all his many strengths with tremendous technique, footwork, and creativity. I doubt he ever really pushed his limits. I was always under the impression he merely enjoyed climbing, and it wasn't worth it to work too long or hard on anything in particular. Yes he strengthened his fingers a bit by pinching those bolts on the gym wall, in preparation for the Thimble. He didn't spent a lot of time, though, on most of his classic testpieces. Had he worked hard and long on routes he would have set the standards much higher than he did. I think actually he climbed rather casually, compared to what he was ultimately capable of doing. Just as a small aside, the planche on parallel bars (or the low, floor variety of parallel bars, as in the photo above) is vastly easier than a planche done purely on the floor. For a short while I was able to do a floor planche on the floor and for a longer while a pure, straight-body hollowback press to a handstand, and those strengths certainly helped on certain muscle-up or mantel kinds of problems. On parallel bars I could start in the L-seat position and lower my feet, to a position where my body was straight, and then slowly do a straight arm planche press into a handstand. My notorious mass spaghetti eating habits, however, brought on the weight gain and ready loss of that pushing strength. Even a few ounces of body weight can be the difference between success and failure, at those upper extremes. The very thinnest, lightest people, or those with thin, light legs, have a tremendous advantage, providing they also have the technique and creativity. I knew one gymnast who had suffered all his life from polio, and his legs were sticks. He could do any and everything imaginable on rings, though for a dismount he had to hang and simply drop off, hoping his legs wouldn't buckle. Gill used to muse that climbing was going to be taken over by thin, light women gymnasts. Visionary as he has always been, there soon followed the appearance of Lynn Hill and Robin Erbesfield, and others (including men who have that body type)... I was always amazed when big, massive individuals, such as John Long, could climb so well, and I have always greatly admired climbers who weren't at all gymnastically strong but could keep up and do their own brilliant routes by virtue of sheer technique and individual giftedness, such as Kamps and Higgins... I'm very sleepy right now and am rambling in and out and around the various subjects...
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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Yea those crossfit workouts are man eaters. One of my classmates from el Cid recently became a SEAL and says they pretty much just do cross fit workouts. Speakin of muscle ups, I thought i was kinda strong. Weigh 185, bench 280ish. In one set I can do close to 25 pullups, maybe 15 dead hang pu's, and 25+ dips, but I can not for the life of me do a muscle up on my homemade rings, even gruntin like a stuck pig. Workin on the progression though. I have a whole new respect for gymnasts. Them guys are on a different strength level.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I worked out on gymnastic apparatus for a short spell just out of college. Several of the U of A gymnasts at the time had ventured out to our little practice crag at the end of Campbell Avenue so they tolerated our presence. Ray Ringle came from a gymnastics background and had plenty of power to show for it.
The biggest benefit that I took away from that sort of workout was the muscle tone. Raw power doesn't necessarily last while climbing but strength combined with good flexibility and muscle tone gives you staying power which is essential to smooth and confident high end output.
Besides that, gymnastics is fun to learn and watch whether it is the Olympics or Dan Osman raising the flag at the Needles. Power to move as you choose is always a pleasure!
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quartziteflight
climber
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What do you guys think about putting on muscle mass? Obviously some climbers are rails and are gonna stay that way. I've been putting on mucle mass since I started climbing and even more so since I started lifting weights again. I went from 130 at 7-8%bf to 173 at about 10 % bf at 5'10". I think it's improved my climbing. There are definetly some built dudes who crank, but how big is to big? Anybody know height/weights for some of the more built dudes who crank/ed hard?
KK,
One armed pullups are f'n hard!
JB,
Sh#t, that ron peers dude is a beast!
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