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DonnerQuestion
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 2, 2002 - 02:10pm PT
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I did a climb at Donner Summit called bolt run. It is 5.10D, and I thought it was an extremely thin climb, if anyone here has done this climb, what are your feelings on it?
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DonnerQuestion
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2002 - 02:10pm PT
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I did a climb at Donner Summit called bolt run. It is 5.10D, and I thought it was an extremely thin climb, if anyone here has done this climb, what are your feelings on it?
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2002 - 02:12pm PT
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Sorry for double post, please delete one of these new topics, I hit the button twice. Sorry.
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Jay
Novice climber
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Yup, you found a sandbag, and not a bad route either. It's very hard for 10d (even for slab, which I suck at), and it might be the most difficult 10d I've been on in all of Tahoe, maybe anywhere. I've talked to friends about it too, and they said the same thing. One friend who's climbed in Tahoe extensively rates it 5.11b/c.
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danBclimbin
Advanced climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2002 - 10:22pm PT
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You should just take the hard grades with the easy grades and enjoy the climbing. Grades are irrelevant other than to give you a general idea of the level of difficulty. So if you ask me what the difference is between 10d and 11c, I say who cares.
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Challenging
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2002 - 02:18am PT
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As you have said the climb is quite challenging but not much harder than the rating you posted. As danBclimbing mentioned its all 5 fun! On the flip side of that you may want to use the route grade to give you an idea of what type of slab routes you get on. The route is all about being comfortable standing on your feet.
I belayed Dick Dorworth on the route in 1998(?) who at the time was in his mid 50's and he hiked right up it.
You might try the two routes to the left for a greater challenge or do laps on the bolt run to hone your slab skills.
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The Dude
Novice climber
The Peanut Gallery
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2002 - 02:55am PT
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The route is different than its original grade. Flakes have been broken off. Rumor has it that a long time local hooked up it using the bolts as protection, meanwhile busting the valuable crimps. I've also heard stories of people dry tooling the thing. I can't confirm either rumor but the grade is around mid-11.
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2002 - 03:51am PT
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there was some short lived Ice routes up there back in 96-98. they were created by leaks from a pipe.
a lot of climbers cried foul because they were afraid of the ice damaging the climbs.......
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concerned citizen
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2002 - 06:36pm PT
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Interesting info, and thanks for the explanations.
I wonder why Mike Carville (or should I say Falcon Press) didn't update his new guidebook with this stuff. It doesn't sound like difficult info to find if you just ask. Not a bad guidebook, but there are VERY few updates (if any) to route descriptions, ratings and info with the new edition and I'm afraid any changes in route conditions (like this one) have not made it to press in over 11 years. That's quite an oversight for such a popular climbing destination like Tahoe.
Is it just me, or does anyone else notice that Falcon Press has lowered the bar of guidebook quality and accuracy? The new covers look good though. More competition would drive the bar higher, but Falcon has successfully eliminated much of it.
That’s what I love about Chris’s guidebooks (and this website); the topo’s are the best in the universe!
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BoBo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2002 - 06:49pm PT
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Am I seeing double on this thread?
Am I seeing double on this thread?
BoBo
BoBo
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