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BR
Novice climber
The LBC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2002 - 04:10pm PT
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Anyone have any recommendations for what ballnuts would be most useful for an entry-level aid rack? I'm going to have a LOT of time off next spring and summer, and I'm planning to build up my free-climbing skills and take aim at some of the easier trade routes.
Are the smaller sizes the most useful? And any brand preferences? (I know that Trango and Camp both make models). Also, are there specific kinds of cracks that these things fit in better than anything else?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
br
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Novice climber
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Jul 26, 2002 - 04:36pm PT
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Personally I think they are a waste of money. If you are planning on doing a few trade routes I would just make sure I had a couple sets of cams (all sizes) a couple sets of stoppers, some offset nuts, some hooks (including cam hooks), a couple of heads and pins (to stay in the bottom of the bag, just incase) and twice the number of beaners you think you need. If you realy think you need them I think I have some Loweballs somewhere.
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Novice climber
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Jul 26, 2002 - 05:57pm PT
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Ballnuts are not usually required on Trade Routes, but I like mine and use them on a regular basis. They work great in spots where there is a thin seam or crack that has parallel sides. Of course cam hooks also rule in these kinds of spots, and cam hooks are much cheaper. (If I remember the price correctly...) There are a hand full of free climbs in my area (not the valley) where Ballnuts can save a person's butt.
If you are going to do something like Zodiac, save your $$ for off-set Aliens. You will be a much happier camper...
My advice is to borrow a set and try them out both in Free and Aid situations. Find out how often you place them, how well YOU like them, etc. Probably that is the best way to make any gear choice. Gear is so darn expensive after all...
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Novice climber
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Jul 26, 2002 - 06:07pm PT
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As I reread my last message I realized that something I said might be missunderstood. I wrote, "There are a hand full of free climbs in my area (not the valley) where Ballnuts can save a person's butt." What I meant to say was, "There are a hand full of free climbs in my area (I don't live in the valley) where Ballnuts can save a person's butt." I didn't mean to imply that BAllnuts are not of use in the valley because they probably are at times.
Sorry, I am just not a very good writer.
:)
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nathan
Novice climber
slt
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Jul 26, 2002 - 11:04pm PT
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Methinks the Trangos and Camp are the same thing, but I may be wrong. Ask Malcolm.
I use them free climbing on ocassion as well as some aid. They take some getting used to, but are often better than nothing. I guess. Mentally anyway.
They work better with a dab/film of silver solder on the flat side of the ball. Sand off the varnish on the copper part and apply some flux and a THIN layer of silver solder. I believe the originals were made this way. (never modify gear.....YOU MAY DIE! (tm) )
I carry the red, blue and yellow. For anything bigger a swarthy Alien or grey TCU will fit. They are pretty solid in a horizontal crack. Managed a 30 ft. pendulum off the yellow one once. Glad I had it.
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sadhu
Novice climber
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Jul 27, 2002 - 01:17am PT
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I really like Ballnutz, for free & aid. As far as I know, the Trango & Camp models are all but identical, though the companies will of course tell you they're not. I haven't noticed any difference in durability or ease of use.
I carry the 3 smallest sizes & find I use them quite a lot - very easy to place & very secure for me. I'd reccomend them even on trade routes - a wide selection of a few pieces each of different stuff for thin cracks gives you more options.
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buster h
Novice climber
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Jul 27, 2002 - 03:53am PT
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ball nuts scare me, they seem solid but are hard to test. I used to carry them on walls but most the falls we had were on those buggers. Nothin like relaxing on a piece of gear you think is bomber and 1 second later cartwheeling down the captain. I've had poor luck with these tools. Give em a try for youself, some people swear by them. My 2 cents, get creative with other gear.
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BR
Novice climber
The LBC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2002 - 12:52pm PT
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Thanks for the help, everyone!
br
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Novice climber
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Jul 29, 2002 - 02:58pm PT
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I've carried them up several EC routes and never placed one of them. I've clipped many fixed ones, tho. I put these in the same gear category as big bros: Not much mental comfort when you're finally forced to use them. They seem possibly useful for doing hammered routes clean.
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