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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2007 - 12:35am PT
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Anyone been up on this thing in the creek? I hear its safe and rad or its a death route? anyone been up there?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2007 - 01:22am PT
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I saw a team of 3 do it about 1.5 years ago. They seemed to be surviving it just fine.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Maybe we can get Pat to comment...If I remember correctly he said he was 'relieved' to have onsighted the first pitch, which I took to mean 'spicy'...
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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A great route for sure!!!!
the night before aaron and i did it we had 8 or 9 alaskans at our fire and the whiskey was flowing heavy.....
needless to say, i had a few too many and ended up falling over in my chair unable to get up, and pouring beer all over myself...
all bets were off for morning...
i some how managed to convince myself that i could still climb the thing even though i was pretty hung over....
anyways i 'lost' the ro-sham-bo and got first and third lead....
i think thats what i would have chosen anyways getting both a burly slot pitch and a tight fingers pitch....
the first pitch starts out easy enough but quickly turns serious as there is a significant run-out to the first pin....the jug i was clipping from even flexed as i pulled up rope!!! After reaching the pin it was a stem fest with a 5 friend in a weird slot and the next piece was right where i wanted my fingers for the move into the slot....
the slot seemed relatively straight forward until the final bulge where things got a bit tricky....but hey its only .11 right? right....hand/fist stacks seemed to be the ticket for me
aaron got the second lead which for the most part is baggy fingers and bad feet. the crux of the route lies at the top of this pitch and consisted of a tricky face traverse to the anchor. shorter description since i was a top rope hero....
The third lead was mine again, and started in a steep right facing corner. yellow alien size. after a quick jam and lieback i got a nice stance to contemplate the hollow finger flake above...place a piece below it and run it out 12 feet...phew!! the crack was solid again but the pitch still had one more bulge...after breaking numerous feet and down climbing to the stance i slipped and hung on the rope....the last 'hard' move of the route!!!! the corner continues on for a ways before the final belay is reached....50 meter lead?
aaron got the last pitch which starts out as tight hands and then mantels a ledge full of blocks under a roof....arron placed a piece with a few long runners and then cut dead left for 15 feet with no pro.....
he then continued on pro less for almost another 30 feet climbing through sand before reaching more gear and the summit of the King of Pain.
wow!
probably way more info than you wanted to hear!
i'd bring a few more purple cams than is suggested in the book as it seemed i bumped purples for a long ways on the easier ground of pitch three....
we summited, though not in the best style...but one i can go back to
even got to watch my friend joel lead up the last pitch(es) of rites of passage...another amazing route going up the king
crux beta!!! hahaha
cheers,
patrick
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Looks like a great line (which is about all I'll ever be able to say about it!).
The BJ's are kinda special, once you top out up there and look around.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Of the many things you can wander around and look at out there,
This one just looks so, so stunning: start at your navel and slowly swing the jaw upward, tracing that awesome line right to the top.
I never thought I had what it took to flash that thing.
heh heh, that's all we were "allowed" to do or even consider back in the day.
(notwithstanding the three strikes and you're out rule)...
That approach has its rewards as well as its limitations.
So cool to see the pictures!
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ct
climber
CO
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Thanks for posting up! Very nice little TR, very proud line.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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