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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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A couple of my buddies (KC the ice climbing god, and Pavel the alpine climber) emailed me about heading to Courtright this past weekend. After a few emails I managed to persuade one of my local climbing partners Jeannine to go, and we headed out. Traffic over 152E / Pacheco Pass was pretty bad, and we rolled into the area around 1:30am.
In the morning (an alpine start of about 9:30) Jeannine and I went over to meet Blaine, one of the nicest 5.12 climbers I've ever met (actually they are all seem pretty darn nice, not that I know very many) and he set us up a TR on the Tiger Cage (middle crack in pic below, about 5.7 - 5.8 ?)
After taking some hints from him on this thing (he regularly soloes it) we walked down to Tiger Wall, where he had set up an anchor and was gearing up to lead Tiger by the Tail (5.11c according to the book)
(before)
(after)
He took a couple of laps tr'ing it
Afterwards me and Jeannine tr'd Hungry Tiger (5.10b) next to it.
(I must have hung on this thing at least five times, but I made it to the top and only lost a little skin off my hands and ankles :)
We finished the day doing a few tr laps on a 5.9 on the Tiger Cage (to the left in the pic) - I believe it has either a 5.7 ramp start or a 5.10-something bouldery direct start.
We headed back to meet KC and Pavel, who walked back from their climbing around dusk. A full moon rose, dinner was cooked, wine came out, and the usual lies were swapped :)
On Sunday we headed over to Trapper Dome where Blaine did a bit of easy soloing, and we watched some guys doing some routes and giving us beta
(a couple of dudes on Drill Instructor, 5.4)
(to the right of Drill Instructor - 5.7 mostly bolted line starts from lower right and goes up and left on the slab; 5.9 route starts in the middle and joins it)
I hadn't led since I broke my foot four months ago, but I got on Drill Instructor and skipped every other bolt to the top while Jeannine belayed me. I lowered her back down, and then walked off around the top.
We took a break for lunch and chatted with some the guys who were climbing. I decided to lead the 5.7 route while Blaine soloed up beside me and took some vanity pics :)
Jeannine followed like a champ, and we did the lower / walkoff thing again. Blaine had to take off, but before then he showed us where Tao (5.7) was. I led that one too, with a bit of encouragement from Jeannine. I got a bit scared on the last move before the runnel, but worked through it and clipped the anchors. I brought Jeannine up, and we rapped off.
We went to soak our feet in the reservoir for a bit, and then KC & Pavel showed up. We swapped some more lies and headed back to Fresno for dinner, where the serious slander and character assassination began :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:18pm PT
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Cool, I love that place. I'm probably going in a couple weeks. Beautiful rock, beautiful setiing. Nice pics.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Tom Cruise's Crib..oh wait, make tha Suri's.
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:20pm PT
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Is that an unleashed dog I see? That's it. It's over man.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
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Tiger by the Tail
Looks real good.
"I went over to meet Blaine, one of the nicest 5.12 climbers I've ever met...."
Weird how you attach numbers onto people.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
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Blaine's doberman is one of the absolute nicest, best-behaved dogs I have ever had the privilege of having around.
Weird how you attach numbers onto people.
Nah, we who know him simply realize we will never climb that well, given our lack of drive, discipline and / or ability. We admire him in so many ways ...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 30, 2007 - 01:27pm PT
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I managed to get there for the first time ever for only one night on my way back from Yosemite, but unfortunately didn't get an opportunity to climb. I really don't know anything about the climbing there at all! Do you have any overview photos of the lake and stuff, so you could point out which formations you were climbing on?
Definitely the primo camping spot is to follow the road just past the regular campground, and park at the side where you can make a short walk down to the lake and throw up your tent close to the water and away from everyone else.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jul 30, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. Looks like an interesting place.
I can't put my finger on it, but for some reason this shot feels like it was pulled right out of a Tammy Knight Comic...
Love the dog sniffing the shoes with a sick expression.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Jul 30, 2007 - 01:35pm PT
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thanks for the pics!
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Jul 30, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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I appreciate that the guy who is going to lead the 5.11c is bareheaded while the guy who climbs 5.8 and is toproping is wearing a helmet. One of those people seems to have unrealistic expectations of the real danger.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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hahaha Jan - I think Jeannine said she met you in Jtree last Feb. I might swing by Friday nite in TM depending on how things go, just to say hey.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
God's Autocad Intelligent Design Lab
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Jul 30, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
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Somethin' tells me that man does not need a helmet...
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 30, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
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Nice report! I love Courtwright...was the water low? Good stuff all over those domes. I gotta get back there...THANKS!
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
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I'm not sure what to compare the water level to .. but there did not seem to be any dry way to the island (which I'm told has routes on it)
Just noticed the guidebook question -
(out of print)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 30, 2007 - 05:10pm PT
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HAHAHA Nice work, Donny!!! lol!
Here's a different view of Blaine on "Tiger by the Tail" from about a year ago...
And, just for good measure, since on another forum, the talk of OW and Blaine came up, by the same OP....
Blaine Harmon on "Space Invader" - Yosemite NP
Dunno about attaching numbers, but Blaine is crazy strong and a very talented climber. It's unfortunate that he hasn't had the opportunity to devote himself to it, he'd certainly be up there with the big names. Regardless, he's a super nice guy and enjoys a day of climbing, no matter how hard or easy for him it may be and is always willing to help someone out with some beta on technique. Him spending a day with Rob and friends is pretty much standard affair for him.
Here's to you, bro!
Oh yeah, nice TR Rob. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack.
Cheers!
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