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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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Anyone every do this route.
I went up there last week and climbed this route with some friends and thought it was very nice. I had tried to solo it last year and backed off from the last move where you leave the crack and mantel on some nice glacial polish (this was no easy task by the way). The Falcon book lists this route as 5.7 and the route to it's left as 5.9 I'd easily reverse the two. The left route was a casual solo whereas Scratch spooked me a bit.
Anyway, just curious if anyone had thoughts on this route, which I definetly recomend.
-Justin
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 29, 2007 - 11:57pm PT
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Can't help you with Scratch but 8/15/04 Gary Carpenter, StoneCowboy2000 and I went up there for a cruisy day and started up on Slabstick 5.7. Instead of exiting left and up on the arches we continuted to follow them, then went up when they gave way to a right facing corner. The went up and slightly left to another corner/roof facing left. At the top where these two corner systems intersect we found an easy way through and wandered up crossing Slabstick and then up on some slab while we made our way into the huge face that forms one facet of the major feature of Marmot Dome. We worked our way up this to the top of Easy Day and finished on a left facing corner that was very polished, man was it slick...
Never reported it as a route... probably should, it's not in the latest book. All the routes up there are fun.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jul 31, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
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I did Holiday on Rock a few weeks ago.
Fun, nice area to visit, some POLISH up there, looked like new, and added? bolts on Low Pro.
We passed under a hawk in a snag on the descent- maybe 20' above us. Sweet.
At the parking area, some folks were heading on the Pothole trail, with 8" bowie knives strapped to their hips. All bears be warned. (Cute girl, bikini top, bowie knife- nice look). I was glad they didn't see my own blade- 'the ladybug'
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jul 31, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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NW (?) Face of Marmot Dome
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 31, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
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I've done it, it's 5.7.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jul 31, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
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"Never reported it as a route... probably should, it's not in the latest book."
Who does one "report" new TM routes to these days that won't make the McTaco? Mr. Reid?
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the chemist
climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Jul 31, 2007 - 02:39pm PT
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I did Scratch in mid June with a buddy of mine who hadn't been climbing outside in around 10 years. And despite the fact that I took a long time staring at the "two feet smeared on glacier polish" move before actually committing to it, my friend was able to do it on his first try. So I am willing to go with 5.7 as a rating, but I will gladly call it one of the most insecure feeling 5.7 moves I can imagine.
I failed to continue straight up from that move and kept traversing to the right and off route, but that didn't really cause any problems as the climbing remained easy and we ended up over on the finishing ledge of Easy Day etc.
I thought it was a great route. Maybe not a classic but certainly worth it for some novel climbing and a very nice vantage point on the meadows at the top.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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here is the part of the route on Jerry's picture...
it is 5.7 and fun
once you get to the ramp, you follow it up to the Easy Day exit which is a wicked slick 5.7 corner.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
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Thanks for your feedback. I wouldn't argue with 5.7 for the climb either. I'm more curious about the climb immediately left of it given 5.9, the name escapes me now. In comparison Scratch seemed much harder, is anyone familiar with this route? Is it a 5.5 inflated by a typo to 5.9? Is the topo misleading? Maybe I'm just loony.
-Justin
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