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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
poop*ghost
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2004 - 05:18pm PT
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and if you want one that's more accurate (without the transformation screwing up the angle):
Big props to Paul for the uno big bro hollow flake lead.
Jason
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dirtbag
climber
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May 21, 2004 - 05:26pm PT
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Great shots!
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ClimbingHuman
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 21, 2004 - 05:29pm PT
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Nice Jason! Looks like a big potato chip. These pics are really sweet.
-Rob
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ct
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 21, 2004 - 06:01pm PT
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*groan* So this is what you get to do while I'm stuck here at work. Nice job Jason, sweet photo.
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moabbeth
Trad climber
Los Angeles/Moab
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May 21, 2004 - 09:48pm PT
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Spectacular Jason. Thanks so much for posting those photos. It makes you feel like you're right there with you.
Especially with the threads on Hollow Flake here, aid noobs like me that have never had the pleasure to be up there now get a small idea of what you guys are talking about in them hehe!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 27, 2004 - 03:43pm PT
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If I remember correctly, near the bottom of that (AWESOME) pan there is a small shadow next to an opening in the crack (not the shadow in the crack but a shadow on the edge of the flake). I somehow remember standing in that (big and safe) to begin the grovel. So yes, you climb just about the whole thing pictured (except for what on my screen is the lower ~2"'s of the photos)
I don't want to offer beta without you wanting it but depending on how you want to lead the thing I could offer gear advice. Do you want scarey (which the one #5 camalot offers) or would you like to know what extra gear might tame the insanity.
Also, I've heard icky stories about people getting infections from this crack. Probably best to wear pants and long sleeves (though I didn't and I'm not sick).
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job
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Oct 27, 2004 - 03:56pm PT
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OK, I'll bite. What's the gear beta...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 27, 2004 - 03:58pm PT
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#6 friend and a #5 big bro, biners to clip to penji/belay - nothing more. Works like this: Penji to crack and get in. Stare up at long OW crack and think .o0(OWCH). put in #6 friend and slide as you go. (it'll slide a bit farther than the #5 camalot). At that point you've pulled the crux and eventually the cam becomes useless - hang it way low between your legs off a daisy. Now you are looking at the penji as your last piece and it's a swing! Boom-shaka-laka-laka-Boom. You've got to climb some ways before you get the bro in and not cause horrendous rope drag. As this is my idea and not actually tried - YMMV. That said, the bro (maybe even two) are not bulky enough to cause headache.
Do NOT be an idiot like me and bring five peices smaller than the #6.
Do NOT and idiot like me and clip both bolts. I'm a sucker for rope drag.
Or, you can do it with just the one cam which is way sporty. It's probably done most often this way.
Also rumor has it the entire thing is easier if you lieback the thing. Uh huh.
Hope you head out to do it. It's one of the highlights of my year!
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