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J.R.
Trad climber
Bend, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2004 - 07:24pm PT
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On the Supertopo for the Triple Direct I see an “OK bivy for 2" just below the belay at the end of pitch 18. It looks to be about one pitch before you join the Nose route at Camp IV. Can anyone tell me from direct experience how good or bad that ledge is to sleep on? Also, are there natural or bolt anchors within easy reach or does one need to use the pitch 18 anchor bolts above the ledge. I’ve seen just one trip report that described the bivy as sloping but didn’t mention how much room there is.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 29, 2004 - 08:44pm PT
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I vaguely remember a decent ledge on the pitch before Camp IV. I'd call it an ok bivi for two. I think we anchord there two. But we bivied up after the Great Roof Pitch. You should be able to make if from Grey Ledges to Camp IV no problem, but this may be a good option if Campp IV is crouded. I don't remember IV being all that great of a bivi spot.
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Oregon Boy
Trad climber
or
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Apr 30, 2004 - 12:24pm PT
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Hey Lambone,
I slept at camp 4 last year and it was horrible. How fast do ya gotta be moving to make it from Grey Ledges to Camp 5?
How was your climb a couple weeks ago, Did you top out?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Yeah, did the Prow, it was pretty straightforward, nice weather, plan came together perfectly.
It is a long day from Grey to V for the average party. If you fix a pitch or two above Grey that would help alot. FYI- the two pitches above Grey before the traverse do not link! Found that out the hard way...
The traverse pitches go pretty quick, if you've got that dialed. All those pitches are basicaly C1, so if you can do them in about 1.5-2 hrs per pitch you should be fine.
Biggest problem might be getting held up by other parties on the Nose.
Go for it, have fun!
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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I remember the ledge before camp4 being way better than camp4 itself. flat but sloping, kind of like the middle ledge at camp5. don't remember any bolts, but i'll bet there are. when we did it it took us 5 days, and we bivied: mammoth, grey, four, and five (with two fixed). try to hit camp5 - awesome spot!
the traverse pitches aren't bad, but hauling could be...
enjoy.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Yeah, shoot for V over VI for sure. VI reeks. When i was there we spent the night with someone elses sh#t bucket...not cool.
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Oregon Boy
Trad climber
or
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thanks guys.
What are your thoughts about just hauling the free blast and not going back to the ground? Will the hauling be much worse than heart ledges?
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Whoa! Don't haul up the Free Blast... It's bad. I've done it both ways & Heart Ledge is much better.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oregon Boy,
Yeah...forget that plan. I've never heard anything good about hauling the Freeblast, my buddies did it once and claimed it almost killed them.
Here is what we did, and it worked well for us:
day 1- Climb Fixed ropes, haul all the gear to Mammoth. This is just a day of hard work. We slept up on Mammoth that night.
day 2- Rappel back to the ground and run up the Freeblast (or Aidslog in our case) back to the Mamoth Bivi. Fix a pitch and spend another night on Mammoth. If you are fast you could probly spare time for a quick coffee and eggs in the Lodge, and/or make it to Gery ledges after the Freeblast.
I liked this approch, because we got alot of the hard hauling out of the way first thing while we were fresh, then once we started climbing we didn't stop or go back down until the top.
Only thing is your gambeling with unseen fixed ropes. Take yer chances.
We brought a portaledge and spent 3 more nights above Mammoth. First El Cap climb...
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