Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2004 - 06:20pm PT
|
...on the Prow.
How do you keep the bag out of this one if you are solo?
Hoping this will be my biggest concern about this time next week.
Thanks
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Far End Hauler, dude. You know where the link is.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2004 - 06:39pm PT
|
Yeah I know that one Pete. Came in handy for me a few times too, thanks.
Seems like you'd lower the pig off the anchor and it'd go straight over into the chimney though? Then how would you far-end haul it?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Ha. We need Chad in on this one - he was the one who dealt with the pig in the "haulbag eating chimney"! What we should have done was "lower" it on tension diagonally upward with the lower-out line - keeping it tensioned out of the chimney. I never even saw the damn chimney, and forgot all about it.
[You can click here to read about the [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7307&forum=19&16&start=9"]Far End Hauler.[/url] A couple posts lower there is a photo of the thing - click the photo, which is a link to itself, for a detailed explanation.]
Cheers,
Pete
|
|
Timpanogos
climber
Heber
|
|
Matt,
If I remember right there is a nice crack off the belay, when you get to the top of this crack it traverses a bit over to a gulley type deal.
I would consider setting up a natural pro anchor in this gulley, at least a hauling anchor - plenty of good placements there.
The gulley is over the pig eating flake, the haul rope will actually end up in the flake just below where you will see to build this natural anchor if you dont redirect it.
Leave one piece at the top of the crack and hook your haul line to. The trick is to keep the haul line out of the crack at the top the pig at the bottom will not be a problem as the last piece of pro in the top of the crack will keep the pig from going around the corner down there and sucking right into pig hell.
You will have to lower a bit and traverse to wrestle/cut the pig from the top redirection pro (old sling, actually cut it? bit of a penji - or setup and lower it out) but from this height, the flake should not be a problem, it was very narrow at the top and you are basically in the easy gullie with piggy at that point
If it gets stuck in the bottom - this is what I did right below the gulley top of pig eating flake hook our adjustable daisy to the haul rope, and get the rope out of the flake (it will lay to the right) the flake is very deep and as you rap down to piggy, keep the rope out of the crack. Real scary point once to pig all you have left to do is pluck the pig out - however, you will have lots of penji tension going on here. Get your feet set well in The mini chimney/huge flake and pull that final rope/pig out and over the pig will now be VERY ready to fly and you must now get your lead binner off the haul line or you are going with the pig for a ride
Bottom line, If I was soloing that pitch, Id consider full natural anchor or double haul the pig on that one. Seems like natural anchor is only about 30 short of bolted anchor?
Chad
P.S.
Petes not telling you about the little scream out we had here.
Pete: what the hell have you been doing all this time, sh#t you cut the pig loose 40 minutes ago.
Chad: motherxxxing, coxxxxing, dirty sonofxxxxxx, what the fuxxxing hexxx, shizxxxx stfu do you think I was doing?
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2004 - 02:11am PT
|
yeah, thanks guys. i was thinking a redirect might be the best option, though I've never done that while hauling before. Seems like it would cause more friction, but i guess way better then the alternative....
I realy like to avoid having to yell at myself too much up there..."Got dammit dude what the hell is taking you so long...STFU beyotch! etc..."
Piggy has seen better days, last wall Fitz decided to send her down the East Ledges 3/4 class section solo. Poor piggy. She just might not live through the "haulbag eating flake"...
This crazy plan just occured to me...Do TDA then rap to Prow pitch 2 and head back up. 2 birds, 1 vacation, 1 approach and 1 NDG. Maybe I'm pipe dreamin'...
|
|
Timpanogos
climber
Heber
|
|
To help on haul rope drag put an double length runner (or more) on that top crack piece. You might even be able to rebelay it in the gully.
I think you'll find it is going to be like a switch within a few feet in that area, it comes up the crack side or it pivits into the flake.
It seems like it was the next pitch that is also going to catch your pig on a small roof - far-end hauler on this one for sure - Karl's jug with it from there to the top
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
"Pete: what the hell have you been doing all this time, sh#t you cut the pig loose 40 minutes ago.
Chad: motherxxxing, coxxxxing, dirty sonofxxxxxx, what the fuxxxing hexxx, shizxxxx stfu do you think I was doing?"
{snicker}
"What happens on the wall stays on the wall," at least until such time as you can both piss yourself laughing about it later!
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!
Oh my gosh, imagine if that Pig-Eating Flake could talk, eh? The stories it could tell..... No doubt it's been the scene of many Big Wall Divorces!
[Note: Big wall climbing is like marriage - you have to accept your partner for better or for worse. If you find yourself in the midst of a Big Wall Divorce, you must remember that you have no one to blame but yourself - after all, you were the one who had the poor judgement to choose your partner! Save your divorce til after the wall, or even after the parking lot. With any luck, and a few beers, your relationship may not seem so bad in retrospect.]
|
|
| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!