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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2018 - 12:08am PT
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The first ascent of Mt Alberta's West Face (V 5.10+) was made in September 2007 by Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh.
This is arguably Alberta's most obscure route and finding something new to offer proved most frustrating. So once again I headed to the source. Raphael was both amenable and generous, allowing me access to a number of outstanding photos from the first ascent. (All photo comments be Raphael)
With the expressed permission of Raphael Slawinski
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Nov 23, 2018 - 04:16am PT
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Thanks Avery for your interest in the Canadian Rockies, and also Raphael and Eamon for their route and photos. Looks like they enjoyed beautiful weather.
Avery, the Boardman books you sent me continue to be enjoyed and shared locally. Thanks so much. Currently Dougal McCarty has “Sacred Summits” and Pat Callas requested “Shining Mountain”. They’re making the climber rounds! Thanks and hope you’re well. Donnie Black
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 23, 2018 - 07:22am PT
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How many pitches is the route and how many are 5.10?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 23, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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Thanks, Avery. Such badassedness. I just don't know how folks keep their sh*t together on those mega loose choss piles. I did a little of it BITD, but never enjoyed it. The views and mystique of the Rockies are amazing, however.
BAd
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 23, 2018 - 11:07am PT
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Given the history of climing there...e.g. George Lowe “5.9” routes from the 70’s, there are likely pitches on this new climb that are harder than 5.10.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 23, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
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In the last picture, ...starting the descent toward the Japanese Route, do we see North Twin to the left?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 23, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
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Yes we do - the Boss of Choss as Domngo so astutely put it.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2018 - 02:31pm PT
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American Alpine Journal 2008
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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Another Alpine Gem Avery!
Glad to have you back in the mix again, mate.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Nov 24, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
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Nice! And so much ch-ch-ch-choss!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 24, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
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Thanks. Great write-up by Raphael in the AAJ.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2018 - 07:15pm PT
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The best TR ever! Thanks.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 27, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
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Scary choss, big face - masters only!
Thanks for putting this together.
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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