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TopherD
Trad climber
Portland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
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A lurker an amateur wall climber here with a few questions on ethics and perhaps tradition.
If a party pieces together some existing free climb pitches, free climbs some existing old aid line pitches and adds some new free climbing pitches to make a new link up, do they typically call that a new route and can they name the new combination of pitches?
When freeing an existing aid line is it ok to eliminate fixed pro including pitons and bolts. Perhaps removing and/or moving them to more appropriate clipping positions?
What is the feeling around replacing fixed pins with bolts?
Really appreciate your experience and opinions.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jul 29, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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the general feeling is that....
yer......
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:00pm PT
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There are many examples of aid routes being renamed when they go free, even without variations. The East Face of the Column became Astroman when Bachar, long and Kauk freed it.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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maybe beating a dead horse. banged up, junk pin vs. a clean placement/lock, with a bolt to make it "safely" free. What is the half life of a pin vs. a bolt?
If you've made it up there, and are fit to make it free, I imagine that some would appreciate a call. It may bring back some memories, or in the wrong company you may lose your head.
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| Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic |
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