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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2004 - 02:08am PT
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Well in between storms, apparently, Gary and I got to the Valley this Sunday... deeply into withdrawl symptoms after a 3 week hiatus involving tendon problems, snow and rain, looping trips to the other coast and midlands. Unfortunately, or fortunately, it was a dream come true... albeit a wet one.
The main concentration for me these days is the lower Merced Canyon... we had done "Golden Needles" three weeks ago and checked on "Free Press" (5.10a)... today we hit the lower right side, specifically "False Verde" (5.9), "Solo Crack" (5.9) and "Notably Knobular" (5.8).
We drove up via Merced to avoid Crane Flat ice and snow, and anyway we were going to be in the canyon, not the valley, and it always seems faster to get there through the El Portal gate. Getting out of the car at the Cascade Falls parking area into the sun, but also into cold air... hmmm... and snow around and about. Well can't say we didn't know after Werner's post last week that the Valley got hammered in that last storm.
We got our stuff together, checked out the Reid's guide topos, Gary is kind to our aging eyes and photocopies a blowup of the page... getting so I can't even read that anymore. Hoist packs and ropes and off across the bridge to wonder up the slope leading to the Verde arete... first time there, but we found it easy enough.
There is a debate as to where Verde is... seems the large-knobbed wall to the right of the arete, which has the iridescent green moss would be a candidate for an alternate first pitch. This matches the Meyers guide topo, showing the start above a "split log" (still there, but who knows if it hasn't slipped down a bit since the late 70's). False Verde starts up a promenent corner uphill of the arete.
Apropos of the day, we were in snow at the base of the climb, with wet soil, weeping cracks, the whole nine yards.
Gary got the first pitch, and had to start with some chimney moves to get established on the climb. Up this corner to just below the roof, out left on knobs, an up a steep section to get around the roof on the left then on easier ground to a nice belay station in the sun at the base of the second pitch corner. This pitch was 100', and weighs in around 5.7.
On my ascent of this pitch I inadvertently pulled a 20lb block out of the corner, which I could control enough to get it around me and down to the ground. Yikes.
The second pitch on this day had an unnerving start on dirt hummocks and into a steep, wide crack at the base of a left facing corner. Up this by a variety of techniques to the crux move to get to a flake which is the door to easier climbing above. Upon getting under the crux the wetness of the rock, and the absolute slickness of the lichen/moss/water mixture was an unwelcome complication to what had been a great lead so far.
Sucking it in I pulled the moves to get my left foot on a dish feature in the rock, stood up and fired in a #2 bd cam in the end of the rock plate. Made it through the crux, but now facing water everywhere and no place for a foot to stick. Eventually working it out (use the right side wall, some great feet to stem to) I get high enough to pull on a very thin, very wet rock trapped under the plate. It held and I was through. Pull to the top and belay Gary up. The second pitch was 100'. Note that Reid's guide is out of proportion for these two pitches. I'd recommend this climb, take pro through #4.5 bd cam and you'll be happy and wont worry.
Walk off right.
On the way down spied "Solo Crack" which is really short, hands and fingers. Gary lead this shorty and I followed. Fun enough, and something to keep in mind for crack beginners because it is perfect, and can be top roped off the substantial vegitation on the bench atop the climb. Watch out for poison oak.
Down again, now a stop at the "Notably Knobular" corner. Looking up at the spectacular "Just Scraping By" chimney (5.8) which was wet, we decided that Gary should lead Notably, face and arete, and dry. Up he goes, first using the crack then traversing left for the arete. The climb is on knobs after the initial crack, and the protection is tying off the knobs. This is great if the knobs can be tied, but these particular knobs weren't the best. Gary got a couple to the arete, then a couple after. He stuck it out and got to the top, maybe 140', to two bolts, one relatively new, the other very old.
I took off up the climb. The knobs are on a very steep wall, the rock is flakey... cool, glad I'm second! Great lead by Gary, proud! I couldn't recommend "Notably Knobular" because of the pro, experienced leaders only!
With the clouds closing in we decided to bag it. But any day in the Valley is a wonder, and all the better that we got a few climbs in.
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Jody
Mountain climber
CA
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Let's see...my Sunday was spent taking care of a sick child...You win!
Nice report, sounds like a blast.
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