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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 10, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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This phrase pops up from time to time in some of these threads. I think there was a mention in the Dick Cilley thread and also in the Kurt Smith thread.
Now being a weekend warrior type, I place rp's infrequently, and certainly not in 'nests' !
What constitutes a nest? A string of them in a row? A sphincter tightening stack?
Photos would be awesome too.
man, I got razzed for saying awesome the other day.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jan 10, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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not really your question but having spent some time on the east coast, some say awesome is a west coast thing
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Jan 10, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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Really? Here in hell, er, the midwest, it's said all the time. Awesome!
**or maybe it's just me. uh oh.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 10, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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My partners and I once took lots of dives onto a circular "nest" of seven #1 and #2 stoppers, and rp's (the wires all pointed to the center) which were all equalized together with a circle of supertape where the slack between each piece's biner was gathered into a single 'powerpoint'. That was then clipped with an Air Voyager (Screamer) which was steeply pre-sliced to insure a flatter loading curve on the nest. We went through about a dozen Air Voyagers taking about three falls on each before we got the route and the "nest" held up fine the entire time.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2007 - 01:42pm PT
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so your nest was basically equalized and tensioned horizontal stoppers (albeit very small stoppers!)?
cool.
EDIT: I just reread and saw that you had 7 rps in there. Circular? man that must have been a lot of work to set up.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 10, 2007 - 02:00pm PT
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It actually took a couple of downclimbs and a fair whipper just to get it set up...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 10, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
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When I hear RP nests I think about a certian route in Montana.
An idea proposed in a Reagan missile scheme was refered to as 'densepack'; same as this route in the Gallatin Canyon. This is due to shallow rp's and nuts placed in dense nests, similar to the idea of grouping the missiles. In the event of a whip (or attack), hopefully some of the pro will hold or missiles remain.
No pics of the nests, but on this route there are a few spots where one can sink 3 or 4 RPs and small nuts; they all look like sh#t, shallow, and even part of the heads stick out on some....Equalize those bad boys and keep climbing...
Cheers,
Tom
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 10, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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In the case of the Electric Africa "rp nest", I think 2 were equalized - one just below. #1's &2's to protect 25 more ft. of 5.11+.....jeez - psychological protection to be sure!! But if you managed the 60 ft.of 12+ peanut pinchin section prior - no biggie.....
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Jan 10, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
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Understanding RP nests requires an understanding of the mating habits of the RP.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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