Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
|
I thought I'd devote a thread to one of my favorite rock climbs. Having done it a few times, I have some great memories and stories implanted in my brain from the times I've been lucky enough be at the right place at the right time.
Starting with the raps, you know you're going someplace special. I have vivid memories of the three variations down low, the beautiful .10b hands below the ledge, and then of course the crux pitches. Stories I can tell include the fits I've seen in the OW and exit chimneys, and crazy rope antics at the top of Uprising.
One story that's burned into me like an overexposed negative took place when I shared one of the higher belays with a good buddy. Together we watched one of the Valley Hard Men(tm) try to send the Rostrum Roof via Excellent Adventure. From our belay, we watch him cruise Exellent Adventure then pause beneath the roof. He placed one Yellow Alien under the roof and busted out and up.
Firing to a spot above the roof, he hesitated for a short second. Looking a tad shaky, he dead-pointed to a flake out right where he latched onto that thing for all it was worth. There he was stopped, pearched above the roof bear-hugging between the crack and the flake, feet skating.
Suddenly the flake blows off the wall and the guy takes the big whip, spinning wildly out into space. The piano-bench sized flake he pulled off zooms toward us and passes just 20' off our shoulders. A couple of seconds later the rock busted up near the lower pitches of the route, surely giving the team just starting the climb a jolly start.
Ya!! To some of the best that climbing has to offer.
So if you have good Rostrum stories to share, kick down.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2006 - 05:47pm PT
|
I got my knee stuck in the offwidth. It was my only hang. What a f*#king bummer. I also got a #1 camalot stuck on the 11b hands pitch at the top. I placed it too quick.
Great climb, great weather, great partner, great day. That climb is the first time I've had leavittation come together and I actually fully enjoyed the 10a offwidth (except for the knee stuck part!).
Josh
|
|
junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
|
Great shot of the 5.10d pitch, I remember one trip with a couple of friends when I got a little sloppy on the lie back and ended up with the rope under my leg falling with my belayer’s not paying attention. I went halfway down the pitch upside down hit the wall with my head just hard enough to make my whole body buzz like when a limb falls asleep, a really weird sensation that was. I finished the pitch but felt totally drained the rest of the way. It is one of my favorite climbs in the valley totally killer cracks.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2006 - 01:56am PT
|
Nice pics and some thrilling stories!
Alvin AKA "Alvino Pon" & went up Blind Faith one afternoon, early 90's.
Not much to tell, but we had one of those rare floater days we all get and that was memorable.
|
|
jerblumel
climber
BC
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2006 - 11:12am PT
|
Appreciate this route...ABSOLUTELY!!!!! The North FAce is perhaps my favorite route in all the world for so many reasons including the first time experience, the rock, the setting, the climbing, the history and its aesthetics. Here's a good piece of historical beta. In 1996 or there abouts a number 5 camalot became wedged in the final, original 5.10 finishing pitch because of me and my trail line which tipped the big cam sideways and into the crack. We tried to get it out with pulley systems etc but it is still ther to this day, I believe partnered with another one now. An expensive price to pay for your first time on the Rostrum...not a chance.
|
|
Dog
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2006 - 11:33am PT
|
The Rostrum Kicks ass.
Love that climb. As a matter of fact, Junior is responsible for my doing it 6 times in a month just cause it was and is so damn fun!
My rated favorite.
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
|
One overcast day in the Camp 4 Lot, we were standing around talking and Werner asks me out of the blue if I want to go do the Rostrum. I didn't know much about the route at that time. I'll never forget Doug McDonald (Rudy Vangina to some) busting up with a smothered laugh. I looked at him and he quickly changed his expression and said I should go do it.
Always thrilled to climb with Werner, I ran to get my stuff. It was definitely over my head but I got up it with a few tugs. I remember being hauled up onto his lap like a sack of taters at the top of the block on that bombay lieback. He was laughing and said, "Look down. Can you believe Croft free soloed that?" I sat there on his lap, totally pumped looking down, and replied with an obvious NO! (Peter had just recently soloed it).
What a classic and proud route! Right on to you guys who routinely walk that thing. Still blows my mind that Peter Croft and anybody else is that confident and strong to free solo it.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Louis
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2006 - 10:05pm PT
|
Still one of the best routes I've ever been on!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!