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wallgumby
Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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Anyone know who put up the aid line on Rocky Peak Roof, near the 118 freeway not far from Stoney Point?
Also who is replacing the old bolts? I liked the job on the anchors at top of 1st pitch. And the old bolts are ancient and rusted through so I can't complain about some rebolting (I added 1 bolt maybe 5 years ago myself). BUT now I see a line of 5 or so new bolts at start of 2nd pitch. I talked to several people and we all agree it would be much better to replace just every 3rd or 4th bolt. That will keep it exciting while updating it so you can't rip the whole thing and kill yourself. Whoever is doing this, PLEASE dont replace ALL the bolts. If I see them all replaced I will chop them.
-David
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oh man another Ken Nichols Threat lololol Hella funny and now it's on the net forever. I will relay your threat over a nothing wall to Mr Worth the bolter. the dude is 6'5" 250+pounds strong as Hercules. PS U won't rip any bolts there any way new or old, I have played there bounced on all the rusty bolts it's not scary in any way what so ever, bolting it all will not make a difference, other than making it nice and new. Good on MR Worth.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
Ventura
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John Oliver and Craig Shaw put up the bolt ladder. They also did a lot of other routes in the area. That was around 1988.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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That roof was bolted way before 1988. I used to go out there after work at the mountain shop at Sport Chalet and climb that roof and that was 1986. The bolts looked ancient even in 1986.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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That roof was bolted way before 1988
Yup. It was rusty and decrepit when I first did it in 1989 or thereabouts.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Were the hangers home made or SMC time bombs?
I've got an idea that a climber named Tye kneff(?) from Los Gatos was active in the 70s
(It seems he was on the East coast by the mid-80s)
I've tried to track him or his son Gus down for yrs. Fritz had said he had heard of him .
And to the chopping threat ? That's just stupid.
Leaving things as they are.
un-fixed, is stupid
fix it right.
Skipping, not replacing some old bolts will lead to more bolts in the future.
It is very short sighted to think that it will stay spicy.
It will look like someone was to cheap to do it ' right' that will lead to more bolts added.
Chop chop chop . . . .
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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John Oliver for sure on the F.A. not sure of the year but mid 80's seems correct.
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komber
Big Wall climber
Ventura, CA
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Did this route with a buddy the other day. Bolts and hangers are rusted to hell. The hangers in the overhang flex when you weight them, great fun! Just to add to the spiciness my partner setup the anchor on the old two bolts that have a big red DO NOT USE THIS ANCHOR dot above it. Good to know for next time :) Really enjoyed this route, will definitely be doing it again soon using the proper anchors.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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