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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 9, 2004 - 03:26pm PT
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Hey I was up there this summer and did the climb on the manky 1/4 stuff he put up in 1970. Would there be any objections if I were to pull the original bolt ladder and replace it with shiny 3/8 this spring? As it stands the free climbing variation known as "Blue Moon" in the Southern Yosemite climbing book by Mark Spencer would be very dangerous to fall on and it goes at 5.11b.
Anyway I see the bolt ladder and many of the 2 bolt ancors need replacement on climbs up there at Wawona and I have the resources/funding/special use permit etc of this Camp Wawona rock climbing program I'm working for now. I've been hired as climbing director there for the next few years so i hope to devote a bit of free time to maintaining the local routes.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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maybe you should ask him?
typicaly he hasn't had a problem with rebolting many of his routes in the Cascades.
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funkness
Boulder climber
Ca.
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Why bother? You gonna do it again? I can never understand why people are so into rebolting stuff. I mean I understand free routes. Cuz people dont carry bolt kits freeclimbing. But an Aid route? I always bring a bolt kit on walls and so should everyone else. That way if you pop an old bolt you can fix it. I actually enjoyed climbing the manky rivets on the Trip. Glad to have done it before the "adventure" was tamed. I dunno. Whats the motivation? Community service? Move on go climb something else. Forget that route. Theres so much to climb.
P.S. DO NOT ADD BOLTS TO EXISTING ROUTES. there. Just because you bring a bolt kit doesn't mean you have to use it. Only replace an old bolt when absolutly necessary, and put it in the exact same spot. Ummm oh yeah, climbing old rivet ladders is fun.
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Feb 10, 2004 - 05:42pm PT
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Dear Hal, Funkness, and anyone else who is bored enough to read this,
I will preface my comments by saying that I used to live in the Fish Camp/Wawona area. The time I spent there shaped my thoughts about Yosemite, including Southern Yosemite. Not that I am trying to speak for any and all Wawona/Fish Camp residents. (Past or present) Just relaying my thoughts on the matter at hand.
As long as Fred Beckey was to give consent, I think replacing the fixed hardware on that route is a great idea. Here is my case:
1. The line looks very good, and from what I have heard is good. (Of course all I have heard is, "I knew a guy, who knew a guy, who climbed it", which I admit is pure hearsay.) I know that looks can be deceiving, but this one looks good and fun. It doesn't have to be in the valley to be fun and exciting. (Though it usually helps, doesn't it? :)
2. It is off the beaten track. An updated climb of this nature in Southern Yosemite could potentially relieve some of the pressure that the valley climbs endure. Sure this line goes at 5.11b which ultimately will keep many suitors at bay. But, if memory serves, much of this line went free at 5.10 or less while the 5.11 sections look easy to aid. (If my memory of the topo is incorrect, my apologies.)
Chris, Greg, et al. have done a nice job of trying to popularize some hidden gems and spread out the traffic in the valley and in the meadows. This route has the potential to help.
3. Some lines should be left the way they are currently equipped, but I don't think that this is one of them. (Again, not that I pretend to know everything, and if Fred Beckey were to disagree then I would certainly change my ideas.)
Some lines should be left as they are now. A route where the physical and psychological crux is 10 heads in a row or a string of RURPs and tied off blades should be left alone. We are talking about filling in old holes with new hardware. The holes are already drilled, and the rock has been altered. What would the purpose be of a bolt that pulls after being weighted besides psychological? If psychological climbing is one's pursuit, there are millions of routes to free solo or climb with minimal gear placements.
I understand the resistance to taming the entire world. Where would the fun and adventure be in that? At the same time, the best part about climbing (again, for me) is coming home in one piece.
Anyway, just my thoughts on a Tuesday afternoon. Take them for what they are worth, which ain't much.
WC
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Ben Rumsen
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Feb 10, 2004 - 05:49pm PT
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I don't know why Fred would object. He'd be fine I'm sure if someone wanted to replace manky bolts on Bastille Buttress too.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Feb 11, 2004 - 02:31am PT
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To give an example:
The Beckey classic (yeah, what Beckey route isn't) "Town Crier" at Index in Washington had it's worn bolts replaced. It is now prob'ly the most popular multi-pitch aid route in the Cascades, and is a training/practice route for many upcoming wall climbers. Lot's of other original Beckey bolts have been replaced as well, that route just came to mind first.
Just be carefull about calling the bolts old, ancient, or rusty...otherwise you may make a quick enemy out of Fred.
Some of his friends and partners post on cascadeclimers.com (he has been known to as well)- it might be the best way to get his contact info or email.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 22, 2004 - 06:50pm PT
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Personally, I don't think you need Fred's permission to replace aging 1/4 inch bolts. Whatever rights a first ascent party has, I don't believe they don't have the right to prevent folks from replacing gear like slings and bolts that fail with age.
That being said, asking Fred would be polite and positive.
Please, please, do it! I can see Wawona Dome from my living room and I've always intended to go try Blue Moon. Just been too lazy to bushwhack up there after a long hike.
How is the climbing on Blue Moon anyway?
Peace
karl
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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