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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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I'm curious if any of you know the name and grade of the face climb to climber's right of the Generator Crack at Generator Station. It has a very thin crack but feels mostly like face climbing. My friend and I climbed this last fall and neither of us got it clean; it felt 5.12b at least. There is a tree on the opposite side of the formation near the parking pullout that one could use to rap in to the anchor, but my buddy just anchored off his car's frame with the windows open; silly but it worked.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 29, 2017 - 07:23pm PT
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I watched Scott Cosgrove do that line once. 5.12b seems about right. But it's in the old Reed guide if you want to look it up.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jan 29, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
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The Blade?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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I have noticed the bolts and chalk on this climb, but I don't know the name.
I don't see it in the Reid guide.
It's not The Blade - that is right of Conductor Crack.
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2017 - 07:54am PT
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bump
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 30, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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I have it listed as 5.11d. I talked to a couple of people who had done it that day, and that's the top rope grade they gave it. It appears that it could be done as a lead with micro pro (RPs, Lowballs), but desperate at best.
What equivalent climbs would you compare it to for a grade of 5.12b? Just curious. Glad to hear you gave it a go.
 Eric Gabel
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2017 - 08:17am PT
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It feels much harder than New Wave (5.11d). It also feels harder than Drive-By Shooting, which I didn't redpoint but I've heard is one of the harder 12as in The Valley. Surprisingly, I flashed New Wave on toprope, but I fell on the route next to the Generator several times and it has a stopper move for me near the end; one that I can't do at all. I think I tried all the above routes during a single trip last fall so I feel it is a somewhat fair comparison. It also feels quite a bit harder than Desperado (11d) on Pat & Jack. I can boulder v6 and flail on v7 on a good day so for that one move to be stopper, I feel that it must be harder than 11d. All that said, certain routes always feel harder for different individuals. I guess 11d would at least be in the ballpark.
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G1nj3r
climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2017 - 01:04pm PT
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I tried this route yesterday and found it to be 11d/12a, we set our top rope by rapping in from my tow hitch, though the tree could have worked. Felt more powerful but less pumpy than Hot Box (11d) which is the only climb I've done that felt similar (on Tope rope).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 13, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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Some Cos, grovel....
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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