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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
JLundeen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 30, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
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Made by fixe, pretty sure I just was weighting the cam, didn't fail due to a fall.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 30, 2016 - 06:55pm PT
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Weighting it for aid they won't fail, but they have a space age design to fail on hangdogs....
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Oct 30, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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Disturbing to be sure.
I use the ones made by Totem as I think they're better made. Hope that's true.
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Matt's
climber
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
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i had a fixe alien fail the exact same way. The american importer (kevin daniels) very kindly sent me a replacement. Others have not been so lucky.
The fixe aliens are now distributed in the us by the shoe company 5.10 (!), so maybe you can talk to them?
and yes, the totems are built better, and as the previous poster mentioned, they attach the lobes onto the axle in a better way.
best,
matt
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:13pm PT
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Appears to be a defective Axl.
Same thing happened to Guns N' Roses.
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
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^^^ LOL ^^^^ Funny stuff Edge!
JLUNDEEN, Were you aid climbing and it failed like that just under BODY WEIGHT? That cam looks fairly new. Fixe is coninuing the CCH traditon it appears. "Made by fixe, pretty sure I just was weighting the cam, didn't fail due to a fall. "
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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L.O. Phreakin' L. Edge.
You kill.
BAd
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 30, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
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whoa, that blows!
I think one of mine may be FIXE.
thx for the post up Jim, I'll check my gear.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 31, 2016 - 03:57am PT
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Metolius, great gear made in Oregon!!👍
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Oct 31, 2016 - 05:31am PT
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I use bolts instead of even considering those items.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 31, 2016 - 06:21am PT
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Well, the heads aren't completely popping off this time... still got three good cams there...
Progress.
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
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Oct 31, 2016 - 06:47am PT
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A couple weeks ago I fell on the black Alien, it held. Then cleaning a Green it broke! The only reason I fell on the black is because the tiny Metolius pulled. Aliens certainly have better holding power for aid, Metolius slips pretty easily when weighted. I carry both sets (offset). I was always a Metolius guy, being from Bend and all, but for anything bigger than the grey Alien I use Totems, fer sure.
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JLundeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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JLUNDEEN, Were you aid climbing and it failed like that just under BODY WEIGHT? That cam looks fairly new. Fixe is coninuing the CCH traditon it appears.
The cam didn't fail in a sense that it pulled from the rock. I remember French freeing on it through the zig zags on halfdome. I didn't leave the cam for pro, but I do remember thinking there was something wrong about it after I clipped it back to my harness.
When racking up later that week I noticed it was completely broken.
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couchmaster
climber
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The Zig Zags? Holy crap, I'd be crapping my pants, that's one of those places in the valley you'd want your gear to not be falling apart. If I remember, some spots would be real clean falls and some would be the near opposite of clean. Wonder if Fixe will continue the CCH Alien customer service tradition and blow it off and/or blame the user for it falling apart. Looks like the nut came off.
Did you do the new knot toss or did more bolts show up?
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JLundeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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Did you do the new knot toss or did more bolts show up?
Knot toss. I used the beta to tension to a hook, then throw from there. I got it first try, on what I thought was a bad throw when it left my hand
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