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max kruzic
Big Wall climber
sebastopol, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2016 - 12:57pm PT
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On a recent trip up the Salathe Wall I started thinking about the fixed lines from Heart Ledges. I know this has been a rather discussed forum item but more specifically I was wondering if anyone out there can shed some light on: 1.) How often (and what time of year) they are replaced, 2.) who is involved in the replacement (and maybe a way I could get in touch with them), 3.) are the ropes donated from any company or organization, 4.) NPS input/involvement/intentional non-involvement regarding these specific ropes.
Judging by the continuous lengths from station to station, I suspect that new ropes are initially dedicated for the purpose rather than older retired lines which would be changed more frequently. The fixed lines were pretty sketchy two weeks ago. Also, the abundance of old/stuck ropes on east ledges descent can be confusing and sadly the cause of the recent accident. If anyone has some info for me, I would appreciate finding out a way to get involved making this situation safer.
Thanks!
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Barbarian
climber
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Oct 27, 2016 - 01:34pm PT
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If safety is your chief concern, I would suggest you do not depend on fixed lines.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 27, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
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Personally I am against permanently fixed lines in general. The closer the stone can be kept to its original FA state and challenge the better. Plenty of dissenting opinions out there, but I still consider removal of old tat, fixed lines, and retro-bolts to be a service.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 27, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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The closer the stone can be kept to its original FA state and challenge the better. FA of Salathe fixed lines here, too. Now it's multiple parties per day. Do you even climb? You sound like a tool - the epitome of a Supertopo never-was.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Oct 27, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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IMO
Officially fixed lines are verboten of course, but in reality they help reduce the clusterf*#k of many parties on the same routes (heart ledges), facilitate quicker descents (east ledges), and make sketchy approaches safer (death slabs under half dome, and Leaning Tower).
You can get involved with other people or just help out on your own.
Old, stuck ropes are the #1 priority. Take a knife on your climbs and remove that old dangerous crap and clean up the cliffs. I'll often cut off some old, bleached slings, or one old stuck rope when I climb. I don't try to clean up everything or I'd be too loaded down. If everyone did this we get rid of all the junk in no time.
Static rope is the best for fixed lines. It's tougher and more efficient for jugging/rappelling. Of course retired dynamic rope is much cheaper.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 27, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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I did Leaning Tower a number of years back and found no fixed rope across the cat walk. It cost us about 20 minutes extra to rack up and string our own rope while we shuttled. Cost maybe another 10 minutes at the end of shuttling for one guy to belay the last guy over when the belayer could have been re-packing bags. I found it to be much less sketchy thanks to the frequent gear placements. That fixed line there is purely convenience.
Similarly on a difference trip up Leaning Tower the effing bandaloopers left lines up to Awhwanee. The one between P2 anchors and Awhanee got wrapped up in our haul bag, so I had to unhook it from the bottom. Once we got the bag up I dropped the stupid thing unceremoniously.
East Ledges are all decent stations with ledges to stand on. I've used my own ropes both times, and it didn't register as a burden in the slightest. Passing tied off core shots would have cost me just as much time.
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JLundeen
climber
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Oct 27, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
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If you fix lines down heart or east ledges, please leave room for other climbers to use their own ropes. Last week we did free blast and had to pass something like 6 knots on one line. I would have preferred to use our own ropes, but the fixed crap was directly through the bottom chain/link.
Also, the above mentioned lines now only have 1-2 knots on the entire rap route
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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