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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
retired
Trad climber
White Salmon WA.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 20, 2004 - 10:11pm PT
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Getting all set for Zodiac in mid April. Was wondering just how much of a hassel horsetail falls will be? I've seen the photos posted by Chris in this site, and the water looks damn close. Anyone have any advice about doing it that time of year? Thanks Jim
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Jan 20, 2004 - 10:18pm PT
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FWIW...I made plans to climb the Zodiac during each week in April last year, and each week there was rain in the forcast, so we canceled our plans. The issue of Horsetail wasn't an issue after all.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jan 20, 2004 - 10:26pm PT
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You will get wettest on the lower pitches. It is like one of those things where it's sorta raining, but not realy, and sometimes it's raining real hard, but then it goes away. It really all depends on the wind that day, that hour, that minute, that second. If it's sunny you will dry out quick so no sweat.
Plan on fixing up to three or four and see how it is before you hump all your loads, then if you need to pick a different route at the last minute all your time and energy won't be wasted on carrying that much crap to the base.
Most likely it will be something like this:
But bring all your gear and extra whiskey 'cause the nasty storms come in hot, heavy, and quick in early spring.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Jan 21, 2004 - 08:48pm PT
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The trick to staying dry on Zodiac in the spring is never standing still on pitches 2&3. Fixing to 1 is ok, but fixing to either 2 or 3 means that your ropes will inevitably sit in a waterfall for a portion of the day/night and be way way less fun to jug and use. Lambone had it pretty much right. You could fix to 1 and then carry your stuff up and wait for 2 & 3 to dry up, usually around 10 am, then just fix to 4. Once your ropes are over to 4 the water will be much more sporadic and manageable by keeping your jacket clipped to your harness. After that you'll be free of watercourse till at least pictch 13, possibly 15.
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retired
Trad climber
White Salmon WA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2004 - 12:28am PT
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Thanks for the info. The option of blastin thru the wet and fixing down from 4 sounds like the plan. Do two 60 meters reach the ground from 4 via the shortest straw as shown on the super topo?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 24, 2004 - 09:23am PT
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Just make sure to go in a clear weather forcast cause some of the worst storms in Sierra history happen in the early Spring. And while it's possible to retreat from pretty high on the route, you wouldn't want to get caught in a big one. The issue of Horsetail Falls is exponentally increased.
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jan 24, 2004 - 10:40am PT
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Recipe for Hypothermia
Take one springtime Pacific storm. Make sure snow reaches the Valley floor.
Climb to Dead Bird Ledge. Add in winds that point Horsetail Falls directly at the ledge. The effect should be like standing in a cold shower at full blast, or harder.
Wait at least 20 minutes while your partner accomplishes his tasks.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Jan 24, 2004 - 12:27pm PT
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2 60m ropes reach the ground from 4. Horsetail is very serious. Luckily, with deft planning you can get by that section in several hours on a sunny day and avoid serious danger. This means blasting past 3 with all our stuff or fixing down from 4. It is possible to bail down the Shortest Straw anchors so Horsetail would not be a major issue during retreat. Neoprene "glacier" style gloves can be good to have along on spring walls. If you end having to climb the last two (or any) pitches when wet they will keep the little people warm(er).
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retired
Trad climber
White Salmon WA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2004 - 04:25pm PT
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Thanks again for the advise and especialy for the warnings. I was in the valley late last march and had a lucky break weather wise for my foray back into wall climbing after a long hiatus. Was chased from the valley with snow the 1st of april (as Melissa noted) Discomfort is not my idea of fun (at least not a LOT of discomfort) so I wont be climbing with a bad forecast or a waterfall running down the route. I now have a metolius bomb shelter with fly so feel a bit safer about those faster moving storms. I'm thinking good weather but be prepared and climb fast and you should be fine plus I love being lulled to sleep by the roar of spring waterfalls (just not the ones directly over my head).
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