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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Kinker
Big Wall climber
Incheon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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Hello,
Can you please let me know if the plan to haul from 3rd pitch to 5 pitch on Tangerine Trip is good or not ? How long vertically ?
I appreciate to share your valuable experiance in advance.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Aug 15, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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Haul to 4 right from the ground. Easy peasy.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Aug 16, 2016 - 04:22am PT
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Haul to 4 right from the ground. Easy peasy.
Or add a rope and haul ground-to-P5.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:43am PT
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P4 and P5 of the Trip are both long traverses. Hauling from 3 to 5 would involve trailing a rope across these traverses right then back left, and then rappelling back down from 5 to 3 to release your bags, leaving your partner at 3 for a long time, or rappelling down from 5 and hoping to swing into 3 if you didn't leave a trailing rope.
I have never seen anyone do this. Everyone hauls to 4 from the ground. You should too!
You're from Korea, eh? You should get in touch with I.C. Kang and his Team Extreme climbers. These guys are up on El Cap all the time. On the same routes. Season after season. In perpetuity. Forever. Maybe they spend the winter up there?
I sometimes call I.C. Kang "I. P. Nightly" after the famous American author who wrote the all-time classic, "Rusty Bedsprings". But I don't think I.C. gets it.
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Kinker
Big Wall climber
Incheon
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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Thanks you for the advice.
In addition to that, I'm curious about how to haul the pig to 4 pitch from the ground with 2 tied ropes. The 4th pitch is over 100 meters long from ground and 2 tied ropes (70 meters × 2) is necessory. However, I don't understand how to make the knot go through the protraction & pulley when hauling.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 16, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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Can't figure out how to pass a Knot? Give up now, big wall climbing is not for you!
Seriously, this kind of climbing is about making decisions and figuring out problems on this level, all day long. You need to be able to think through these things. If you can't figure out things like this several ways, off the top of your head ( you have ascenders, slings you can tie prussiks with, maybe a Grigi, etc, right?) this might not be the type of adventure you should be considering.
Good luck!
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teejaybee
Trad climber
Australia
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Aug 16, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Get the knot as close to the pulley as possible, tie a backup knot on the slack side and clip it to the anchor. Clip a jumar on a sling or use a Prussic on the loaded side and clip it into your anchor as well, then release the weight of the pig onto the jumar. Remove the pulley, put it on the other side of the knot, then haul through enough to take the load off the jumar, remove the jumar and the backup knot and continue hauling.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 16, 2016 - 06:46pm PT
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There is a much easier way to pass a knot while hauling.
You use a 2:1 hauling ratchet, with an extra long zed-cord, say about 4m. You lower the inverted ascender as far below the knot as you can, and then put both your jugs on the zed-cord and jug it until there is slack in the weighted haul line. Then easily pass the knot through the hauling device.
And yes - tie off the haul line with a backup knot while you are performing this action
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:20am PT
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It is obvious that the surlier the remarks, the more broken down the climber
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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