Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
marky
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 26, 2006 - 09:47pm PT
|
have led A6 and CS but have heard that Nutcracker has a heady crux. I'd like to do Nutcracker next week, and would like to hear how the three routes compared, thanks
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 09:51pm PT
|
Nutcracker is much more sustained than after 6. After six has one pitch of .7, everything else being 5.5 or easier.
All nutcracker pitches except the ramp are harder than the first pitch of after 6, if I remember correctly. somewhat foggy...
the crux mantle isn't that hard. It takes pro, but don't fall. I thought it was 3rd hardest move on the climb, two other bulges being harder (but taking good pro.)
have fun!
|
|
valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
|
CS Concerto has a scary pitch - a 5.7? slab move 50' or so out from your last gear, which is 40' or so out from a ledge. Never again. Meow.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 11:28pm PT
|
Also depends on the start...
The 5.6? or the 5.8 layback, or the 5.9 face/thin crack...
The mantel is great, but might be a bit heady because of it's reputation, and the "circus bear on a ball" move. Keep your head and work the problem...
check out the ST thread http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=97781
Mike Dalquist is still doing laps!
|
|
Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
|
You fall at crux, you break your legs...at least. The leader must not fall.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 11:34pm PT
|
there goes the onsight! :)
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2006 - 11:51pm PT
|
It's probably fair to say that Nutcracker is a 5.8 for 5.9 leaders. You have to be very solid on the crux mantle, because the pro is low (at your feet). Leader falls at the crux often result in impact on the slab below and broken ankles. It wouldn't be a good choice for your first 5.8 lead. Bishop's Terrace and After Seven would be worth doing first if you haven't done them already. Harry Daley and Chouinard Crack are better protected 5.8s also.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!