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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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Just 'cause
I must of thought that "large sack" was. Joking or just about to get the deserving schooling he ultimately received
But some of this was really fun to read through and I felt the topic also when applied to Rock,
Was a worthy thread topic
So cut and pasted for y'all : missing is the original post that referenced a plastic gym climb
I think ?
Jebus H Bomz
climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jul 10, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
Gym climbing is hard. I'd chalk that up as an outdoor 5.13 ;).
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Jul 10, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
Dike Route in Tuolumne when I was new at 5.9 leading.
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jul 10, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
That one in the back wall at Berkeley Ironworks, where they usually have pal opposition and stemming problems to the right of the slabby wall.
Probably that was the only one, and it was a few years ago.
sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
Jul 10, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
i had a 5.12 bout of stomach flu once. When i was awoken in the middle of night by a ferocious gurgling, i performed 5.12 moves getting to the toilet before soiling an already soiled bed. i'd take 30 ft. whippers over that hell any day
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 10, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
5.12 is the realm of experts, what do Stuportopians know about 5.12...
... these days?
thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
Jul 10, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
what is 5.12?
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 10, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
All the most hardest gnar gnar sh#t I ever did was about 5.11c. At Woodson. In the 70's. And I can still do that crap now, so bite me.
American Legend, bitches.
jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
Jul 10, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
because I send one in the gym...
If you're in the eighth grade you get a pass on this.
Edit: Aha! You corrected it. I was referring to the spelling error.
Well done in the gym! Now go outside.
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
Jul 10, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
I top-roped this hard, road side climb in the Needles of South Dakota--someone has probably graded it 5.12...
Called "The Thimble", I believe
TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
Jul 10, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
Once you lead 5.9, you're just plain done,
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 10, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
J-tree, that thing makes the testicles really really small. Friend and I were looking for something chill and slabby day after we did astroman. We were sore as hell from astroman, and climb was not at all chill on that one pitch lol.
Mine was some pitch on Texas holdem in RR. Maybe the softest 12a ever. I am no 5.12 climber
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 10, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
Dos Hermanos, IC . . . probably been downgraded to 11c.
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jul 10, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
anunaki at the creek, though many say it is soft
9 lives at the creek, also a softie
rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
Jul 10, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
Chimney pitch on Shangri La in Monument valley.
as Tim aka ontheedgescared...
RyanD
climber
Squamish
Jul 11, 2014 - 12:15am PT
Youth gone wild at Pet wall in Squamish. Least classic route on the crag, way soft too. Lol.
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
Jul 11, 2014 - 05:29am PT
5.12 is the realm of experts, what do Stuportopians know about 5.12...
... these days?
Hah, we can remember what 5.12 was like before it got inflated to 5.13! This is good, though, because you can get old and feeble and still climb the grades you did 25 years ago (or pretty close, at least).
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:08am PT
Lucky for you, ratings at the Gunks are soft. You should have no problems.
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 11, 2014 - 08:33am PT
I'm new to this forum and thanks to the people who are nice. And f*#k off to the dick heads. I was pretty happy about my 5.12. Now I have to do one on real rock.
Some will probably laugh, but I am super excited when I get a 5.12a clean, at the gym, on top rope! So enjoy it and welcome to the forum! It has some interesting stuff and a lot of garbage. Don't take it too serious.
Gunks Ray
Trad climber
Gunks
Jul 11, 2014 - 11:38am PT
The Throne was my first 5.12 back around 83, of course back then it was only 11+, done yoyo style on lead. A lot would depend on whether you are planning on leading or top roping. Lots of good 12's in the Gunks to top rope, not many easy 12's to lead. Kansas City and Project X would both make good safe leads but they are not easy 12's. There are a number of good 11+ to mid 12 routes that are easy to top rope in the Nears around Birdland, as long as you can trad lead solid 5.8 to 5.10 to put up the anchors.
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 11, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Truth or Consequence Pinns west side.
The second set of posts,
Jul 11, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
Thimble 1961
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
HEY, I did that chimney pitch on Shangri-La too (early '80's)! So, that must have been my first 5.12!
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
5.12 in 61? You must B 1 hell of a storyteller.
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
Dudes....what's the Thimble? Steve Wunsch and I couldn't top rope it in 1974 and John Gill soloed it in 61. 5.12 for sure!!! By the way, it's over a metal guard rail that reminds me of the blade of a guillotine.
It's in the Needles area of the Black Hills. John Gill became my instant hero after I flailed on it.
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
Ha, ha, ha....yeah the Gunks are soft....not!
In my prime in the 70's I did a number of 5.11 FA's in the Valley. One, Overhang Overpass, Bacher thought was 5.12...that was 74. It's now rated 11c but without cams or sticky rubber things were a wee bit testy bitd.
Then i spent a couple of decades pursuing alpine climbing.
In the last couple of decades after I turned 50 I did a few climbs "rated" 5.12 including a sport climb a couple of years ago. Probably the first one with a guidebook rating of 5.12 was "Way Rambo" in IC about fifteen years ago. Hard to compare with ratings all over the place and having gotten softer over the years.
There does seem to be an over emphasis on ratings today. People find climbs that fit their comfort zone and then "work" the hell out of them to get the number. Lot's of climbers who have red pointed a 5.12 can't consistently climb every type of 5.10 anywhere, anytime.
If you don't want to leave your comfort zone because you can't get the numbers you want, you're missing out on a lot of good climbing.
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
Gill was a mythical creature, made up by the climbing gods, so they could have a deity to worship like us mortals.
Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
yeah.... since all the climbers in the area before you were such.,... (uhm, uhmm) awesome climbers that as a new forum poster you should have no problem....
cheers
Good luck on the 5.12 outdoor send...
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Yo Sack, don't go all Cristie on us...
... the crew at the Gunks will work you harder than us.
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
I know that it should be "no" clue. Say my nephew and his fourteen year old daughter are coming out to visit tomorrow from New Jersey. I hope she doesn't miss the Garden State too much. My sister lives in Cape May, we have soooo much in common Sack.
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
Definitely trolling.
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Yeah....I think Sack actually lives in El Portal, Bishop or Boulder.
Sack....please remove the hook, I think you used treble, barbed hooks.
RyanD
climber
Squamish
Jul 11, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
Large sack, I usually find that gym 12a's are about 4 grades easier than outside, another thing to consider is that gym climbing doesn't count for sh#t if you are a grade chaser (obviously).
Soooooooooooo. Congrats on your first 11a!! Good for you dude!!!
RyanD
climber
Squamish
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
Large sack!!
Wow I can't believe you did 12a in the gym!! You really made a difference in the world today man. I wish your large sack was closer to my face so I could properly cup it.
Do you mind if I tell all my friends on Facebook and Twitter how rad you are?
Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Woah!! You do parcore and free running?!?!
Sorry I didn't know you were so great, I wish you would have just said so in the first place. Can we start over I'm so sorry I offended you.
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jul 11, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
Sorry to Jim but New Jersey sucks.
Do they have real rock there or do you have to go to Central Park NYC?
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 11, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Freakin funny as hell!
jstan
climber
Jul 11, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Jul 11, 2014 - 11:38am PT
The Throne was my first 5.12 back around 83, of course back then it was only 11+, done yoyo style on lead.
GR
Don't remember any Yo yoing on that one. But it was 41 years ago.
We were really into tens at the time.
KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
Jul 11, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
parkor
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 11, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
parkor
I think that's off Rt. 17!
James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Jul 11, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
Sentry Box (a)- it took me a couple tries and Bryan Sweeney, a boulderer, belayed me. My second 5.12 (c) was Flight of the Challenger at Murrin Park. That really opened my eyes to climbing harder.
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
Jul 11, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
on my first 5.12 i clipped the first clip, hung on the bolt and squirted a bunch of runny diareah into my prana yoga pants. felt like a f*#kin toolbag. my belayer lowered me and i went and hung out at the car for the rest of the day. this was back in 98 when 5.12 was the real deal.
There is a lot of good hard rock in New Jersey, the best closed to climbing, climbing in the state is along the Hudson River facing NewYork City, the cliffs run for miles, people have been sneaking in and climbing for years; The Palisades. There is more rock in Nj but none near Cape May, sorry Jim. As vertical play-grounds go it is not worth a trip but if you are instate and need a fix the secret weapon of climbers from Bill Shockley, Vic, Benesh, R Raffa, Jeff Gruenberg, Dana Houser as well as many others is located on Diamond Hill Road between
Rt 22 and route 78 in Berkley Heights Nj
Yeah it is
Diabase like the Palisades,
Stay away from the Delaware Water Gap head instead to the cliffs in northern Nj highlands,
Now being lumped together under the name Green Pond.
There is a lot more excellent rock in Connecticut some all gear 5.12 & harder leads,
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Oct 24, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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Well, there was a climb at Seneca that was touted as 5.12 around 1990 that was downgraded very early to 5.10d on the basis that I did it on sight.
Does that count?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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Everything counts
I chased 5.13 my last Gunks membership pin was 1513 = one 5.13
The nasty gash was at first a.13 then it got rated * super crack 5.12d
As did Artificial Intelligence which I never got clean. . .
Infinite Space, Kansas City, on lead but prolly No Solution on TR
How hard was the hard way on Disney point ? There are a number of unmentionable climbs
In the woods some with names
Moisturizer - Sinus - Marooned - Wan Go Tango (if you're as short as I was when did it)
I guess at lost city with Kevin B - Cars That Eat People, Thunder Dome, Clairvoyance, Resitoflex. And after Owen took out the ' baseball' Persistance. . . .
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Oct 25, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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Flight simulator
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Oct 25, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Bloodline, Josh, FA
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 25, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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Big Electric Cat. 5.12a
Then Diminishing Returns 5.12a
Then Attitude Adjuster 5.12d onsite.
Then Stop The Press 5.12a
Then the Vendetta 5.12d
Then Flumbuss aka Revenge Therapy 5.13a Flash..
Then in Joshua Tree NP This Is Only A Test 5.12 a to d height dependent onsite with Jim Bridwell belaying on a after guiding all day deal.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 25, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Yo Jeff how do you have seven 1st 5.12s? Did you do them simultaneously? :-)
Mine was probably a route at Courtright called SeamStress. Called it .11+ on the FA, but I have been called out for sandbagging that one.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 25, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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Monkeypaws (12a) at Donner, as far as protected by gear, without bolts.
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