Mountaineering + Climbing Year - Advice

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strandedinthecity

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2015 - 07:49am PT
Hi SuperTopo Community -

I'm relatively new to this forum, but I'd be grateful if I could get some advice on taking a year off to go hit some mountains and some classic rock climbing spots. Here are some of the spots I'd love to hit (knowing I won't hit all of them):
Climbing
 Red Rocks
 Joshua Tree
 Zion
 Indian Creek
 Yosemite
 RRG/NRG
 The Sierras

Mountaineering
 Alaska
 Colorado
 The Sierras

My idea is to start in March/April and climb for a year. My questions are:
 I'll be traveling by myself. Are there specific times to hit each of these spots to maximize likelihood of meeting climbing partners?
 Is combining climbing and mountaineering in a single year a bit aggressive? Another idea I have is to just have a single expedition in the trip (say, a trip to Alaska in June), and then climb around it. Given the level of cardio training required for any serious mountaineering expeditions, I'd be curious if folks have any views on how to combine both.
 Given the length of the trip, is it worth getting a car, or should I plan on just going and camping at each place? I'm leaning towards a car, but I'm curious to hear others' opinions here.

Any and all thoughts here are much appreciated.

Thanks!
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Oct 24, 2015 - 08:02am PT
If it were me, I would plan to mountaineer in the summer, and do the cragging in spring, and fall.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 24, 2015 - 08:50am PT
What is your climbing experience and what grades do you climb, both trad and sport?

Public transportation other than YARTS is rare. I'd recommend getting a car; a van would be better.

edit: post your LEAD climbing capabilities
RyanD

climber
Oct 24, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
If it was me I'd start in Utah, Moab area. Colorado by May or whenever it was too hot, get some sport climbing done and bouldering then go climb some alpine rock, I think there's at least one mountain there that is popular for rockclimbing.

By the end of July I'd be in the high Sierra smoking all the weed I bought legally in Colorado, frolicking in the range of light until at least the end of September, bagging peaks, bouldering and doing fun multiday adventures the whole time- then the valley to see a million people and get annoyed but do some fun climbing, red rocks is still pretty hot in October in my experience so I'd bide my time and try not to go there until end of the month at the earliest, ride that out until December if possible and hit Zion/St George on the way to Arizona, where I'd stay and explore probably the best climbing of the trip for most of January and February before making my way to Joshua tree for a quick stop to see a million more people then head home and go back to work and be depressed for the next 6 months from freedom withdrawal.


RRG or NRG could be a good starting point too and hit the creek/Moab at the end. It's pretty far away from your other destinations though.


Have fun!


Edit- buy a van
overwatch

climber
Oct 24, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
sounds like fun except for all that driving by yourself
strandedinthecity

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
Thanks to all for the responses. To answer some of people's questions:
 @johntp I currently lead at 5.9 sport, and 5.7/5.8 Trad (obviously following is a bit different). I've been climbing casually for a couple of years and am now at a point in my life/career where I can take some time off to go get my climbing to the next level. At the risk of opening myself up for total criticism, part of my concern is that I'm not climbing "high enough" grades to go out on my own; but maybe that's silly. In any event, I'm climbing most weekends this fall, and headed to New Zealand in December, so hoping to be in much better shape by then.
 @RyanD That sounds like an amazing itinerary. I love the idea of starting down in Moab and going from there. Also, yes on a vehicle. I was thinking a Tacoma would be a fun way to go about it?


johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 24, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Tacoma with a topper would work, but for a year long road trip a van would be best. I assume your trad is in the gunks?

The areas you are looking at have diverse climbing requirements re: technique. Most of them require crack and face skills.

Multi pitch, trad pro and anchors, etc.

Go for it and have fun. Wait for it.....



















Yur gonna die!
strandedinthecity

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
Yah. Trad is mostly in the Gunks (have ventured to Utah before).

Agreed re: multi-pitch skills, anchors, etc. Those are pretty solid (IMHO).

good advice on the van, and here's hoping I don't actually die :)


AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 24, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
Consider the Bugaboos and Squamish. You can find partners and these areas are world class. Plus other areas in BC are great for mountaineering.
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