big pendjis

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic

jkane

Trad climber

Madison

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2015 - 09:45am PT

Like others here, I recently saw the photos by Tom Evans of the Rubber Band Man pendulums (thanks for the photos, Tom). Now, I've done a few pendulums, in the valley and elsewhere, but nothing too big. I was hoping that some here could elaborate on the state of art. What makes for a hard pendulum? horizontal distance traveled? How about the gear for the lower out point? I imagine that there are some pendulum anchors out there that I can't actually imagine. I've always swung into pretty good jams or stances- what's out there for desperate catches? The image of John Middendorf arcing across pitches on the Kali Yuga have stuck in mind as mega-swings.

My most memorable swing was on otherwise-free climb in norway where I swung around a corner, and across a slab to a finger crack. Then you back-clean, or don't place gear in the crack for a good ways. It was primarily tense because a Finnish climber had apparently died on the same section when the pendulum anchor (a cluster of not-fixed nuts) pulled.

So, what's out there for notable pendulums?

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber

Central Valley, CA

Oct 20, 2015 - 10:13am PT

"big pendjis"

I've always been trying to figure out where people come up with the 'J'. I always hear people pronouncing pen-dul-um as "pen-gel-um."

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Oct 20, 2015 - 02:40pm PT

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 20, 2015 - 02:43pm PT

The ones on the P.O. Wall and the N.A. Wall were far harder than the ones on the Nose......

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Oct 20, 2015 - 05:17pm PT

There is a double Pendulum on the 8th pitch of West Buttress on Liberty Cap.

You swing left 15 or so feet, nail a couple beaks in and lower down 40 feet.

Spin the wheels hard (50+ footer?) and latch onto a 4" 5.9 crack that goes on for 80 feet.

Pretty sweet, I was the second person to have done it.

MarkWestman

Trad climber

Talkeetna, Alaska

Oct 20, 2015 - 07:14pm PT

Oct 20, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
The ones on the P.O. Wall and the N.A. Wall were far harder than the ones on the Nose......

I can't say I've done a lot of big pendulums but the Nothing Atolls was by far the hardest. Not only is it long but it ends with a hard move onto a ledge.