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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Just returned from the City where the aspens were strutting their stuff to a background of white granite and azure skies - paradise found. It was my first time back on the rock since total knee replacement surgery on July 7. Local Duane Ackerman met up with us for a fun-filled day climbing his new routes in the Lost World. I had to modify my technique a bit to avoid high-steps with the left leg, but managed to get up three moderate routes without weighting the rope. My 15 year-old daughter swarmed up everything twice as fast as anyone else. Other highlights were a superb sunrise on Saturday morning, a home-cooked meal at Duane's house in Elba, and a drive up Mt. Harrison. My good buddy Dr. Maxood accompanied us for his first trip to the City and brought a mixed case of the finest vino, so we didn't have to suffer.
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Scylax
Trad climber
Idaho
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Oct 13, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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I do love that place. Great pics!!😎
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hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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Oct 13, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Beautiful, thank you for the report.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 13, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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Awesome, KP!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 13, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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Gorgeous photos! Scenery, friends, wine and climbing - can't beat it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 13, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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Only makes me wish I was there...now! Three weeks ago it was very hot with incredible flies! I still had a great time there, and I'm envious now!
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Scylax
Trad climber
Idaho
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Oct 13, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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The flies have been BAD this fall. Looking forward to some late fall climbing at the COR!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Oct 13, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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Nice photos. Climbing at the City meant a lot to me.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Oct 13, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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Good photos! Wish I was there.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 13, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
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kpinwalla2! Thanks for sharing your fine time & the great photos.
My 2009 Bingham City of Rocks mentions some older, but unprotected routes on Lost World, along with a slew of newer 5.9's to 5.12's. Did the 5.5 & the 5.7's have cracks for protection or bolts?
Or maybe, I need to help out Dave Bingham & buy a new guidebook?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 13, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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Nice Kevin ! Beautiful pictures!
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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Fritz - Maybe 15 years ago, I first spotted the scalloped faces/slabs of Lost World from a campsite near Lookout Rock and recognized the appearance of rock that typically hosts nice moderate routes. I informed the climbing ranger Brad Shilling about what I had seen and told him I wanted to apply to put some routes up there. We hiked over and looked at the rock and he said he would not give permission because the routes I proposed were too close to a couple of existing run-out face climbs that saw very few ascents. I was bummed because I saw the potential for multiple new lines that were clearly distinct from the old stuff. On our way out we passed another steep slab that I had noticed from afar and he said it would be OK if I put up a route on that one. That route became "Hired Gun". I was surprised therefore last year when Duane told me he'd put up 4 new Brad-approved routes at the Lost World in exactly the location where I'd been refused permission years ago. I guess standards change. At this point, I'm just glad the routes are there and especially pleased that Duane was the one that did the job. The climbs are fun, well-protected and have a gorgeous staging area, so I expect them to become popular once the word gets out. One of them takes a couple of supplemental cams and the others are fully bolted.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 13, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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kpinwalla2! Woohoo! Thanks for the info! I look forward to checking those routes out!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 13, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Great photos! Thanks for the TR. Sounds like there are some nice moderates out there at Lost World.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Oct 14, 2015 - 05:59am PT
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Fantastic. Fall is the best, and you can't beat The City. In two years, I'll be off work each fall, and I can't wait. Wonderful.
BAd
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 14, 2015 - 08:12am PT
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COR is a nice place.
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Oct 14, 2015 - 08:16am PT
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Great pics Bob.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Bob?
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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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