Accident Report: West Face, Leaning Tower 9/27/15

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ClimbingRanger

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
All,

On Sept. 27th at 8:25am 911 received a call from a climber on the West Face of Leaning Tower reporting a climber fall. At the time of the call, the patient was hanging unconscious 10’ below Guano Ledge on their lead line after taking an approximately 20’ lead fall near the start of pitch 4.

Find the complete report here:

http://www.climbingyosemite.com/portfolio/accident-report-west-face-leaning-tower/

Be safe,

Yosemite Climbing Management
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
Well, I'm glad to hear he had no serious injuries. Those penji falls can be nasty. Even with a helmet.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
I have watched Vets and noobs take whingers in the same place.



SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:45pm PT

Thanks for the rangers coming to rescue those on
LT. (and other places too)!
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
I've swung there, though I think it was my third piece that popped despite testing. Testing there is not easy, as even a well tested piece gets loaded differently once you are on it and leaning to place the following piece. The crack is flared and shallow pin scars that aren't great for a few pieces.

Glad to hear the leader was no worse for wear.

Rapping WFLT is not bad with some planning, I've done it, and it only takes a half dozen draws as directionals to keep yourself into the wall. of course then you have to re-ascend, re-rig, and rappel. But the last thing you would want is to be worried about a head injured partner cutting himself loose on accident, or effing up the catwalk at the base, or losing consciousness while rapping in space. Sounds like a rescue was prudent all considered.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Denver CO
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
YOSAR is awesome, great report.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Oct 1, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
I thought that pitch was a bit scary and had potential for a bad fall. Especially with the desire to back clean for the 2nd. Glad to hear he is ok.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 1, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
Good report.
Back cleaning can be done more safely, if you always keep 2 (tested) pieces of gear clipped to the rope near you.
So you place 3, then back clean the lowest one.
It's a bit slower, but less scary when on really big runouts.
Of course this may require 3 of about the same size piece of gear.
Wide crack examples:
 Nose, last long pitch of Stovelegs
 Zodiac, above Peanut Ledge
 Lurking Fear, pitch 8
And there are situations where just one piece pulls and you get hurt.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
Oct 2, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
This brings back memories ...

I've taken a fall at exactly this spot - reaching up to place the final piece in the thin sloping crack. We had reached Ahwahnee ledge early and I was going up to set up rope on the next pitch for ascending the next morning.

But I hadn't backcleaned and planned on lowering down to clean from more solid protection above. A few micro pieces ripped in the fall but I was held by a black alien. It was so welded into the crack that we never recovered it.

The fall was fairly vertical and as you know, way over free space. But right at the end the rope tightened across the buckle of my chest harness driving it into my ribs. And cracking one.

The climb back up to the belay was painful. We decided to call it a day and see how things were the next morning. It as a beautiful morning for climbing but I woke up unable to move either arm above my shoulder height.

Down was the only option. I went first, carrying a full rack of draws. Every third bolt I would swing into the wall and attempt to clip (without allowing my arm to go above my shoulder). Painful and very slow. But we made down to Curry before Pizza closing which is all that counts.

No climbing, laughing or coughing for six weeks. I'm glad to hear that this one worked out reasonably well too.

Cheers, Roy
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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