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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
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I'm losing the last joint of my big toe, and the last two joints of the next toe in (index toe?). This will be leaving a void in my climbing shoe once I am able to wear it again (I am currently climbing in a boot until the joints have finished autoamputation).
Apart from other obvious concerns, I'm wondering about what to do with this void in a flexible climbing shoe toebox. Heel-toe technique, toeing in, etc. seem like they would all be compromised.
Does anyone else here have experience with similar foot injuries and have any advice?
For example, I'm wondering if it is reasonable to take my climbing shoe to a shoe repair shop and have the toe-box cut and modified to fit the new shape of my foot?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Aug 25, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Just get the rest of your toes removed and get little shoes
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Aug 25, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
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Barry's Resoles does custom work (and great resoles too). Until recently I didn't know he was on the taco but he does. I think he goes by "TwoShoes" here. Also Locker does great resoles and I'd bet he's up for the task as well.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 25, 2015 - 06:20pm PT
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Cathy Bates in "Misery" ^^^^^
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 27, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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Dude, What happened to the toes?
I second Barry's resoles, he can surely fabricate a block or new rand etc.. for you.
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Aug 27, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Aug 27, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
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Seems like a custom last is the right answer, though i could also imagine a much more customized insert that could be fitted around the foot and then slipped into any extant shoe, thus eliminating the need to pretty much buy a new custom shoe each time the point wears out - whether out of custom molded steel or other - something like a pre-moulded prosthetic that slips around the foot and then into the shoe. A close friend is a professional prosthetician - i'd happily pass along his contact info if you like; does a lot of work with unusual injuries, especially combat injuries.
p.s. i TOLD you not to stick your foot in that turtle's mouth..
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Aug 27, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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A climbing shoe cobbler is not a shoemaker. Locker knows what he talking about on this one.
I suggest you email this guy, who is a climber, in Omaha, Nebraska: dan.ballarin@gmail.com
Dan does orthopedic and prothesis work. You could probably do a custom cast and send it to this guy.
Next best bet is Luis' Custom Shoes & Boot Maker, Fresno, CA 559-222-7091 This guy has never made a pair of climbing shoes, but could probably modify a pair. After he modifies the upper, send it to locker to get the rubber work done. This guy started the trade at 14 years of age. George Bush the First flew all the way to Fresno, years ago, to have Luis custom build him a pair of cowboy boots. It was in the Fresno Bee newspaper.
Best of luck!
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perswig
climber
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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...but by the third try he had fine tuned the shape and volume of the toe and he nailed it.
Nice, even if not actually intended!
Dale
(chuckle)
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Oct 25, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
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Get ahold of Dan Asay from Tony at the Rubber room.
He has been making shoes for folks like you for decades.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Oct 26, 2016 - 07:30am PT
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Tom, Asay is trying to retire, so tracking him down will not yield fruit.
The shoes I worked on for the Warbler would not have been possible without the last he provided.
Best options sound like what Barry posted above
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