Sport/single pitch climbing in Leavenworth area?

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benbro

Social climber

San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 5, 2015 - 10:09am PT

Hi all,

On a PNW road trip and heading from Seattle to Bend and thinking of stopping by Leavenworth for a day or two. The only thing I've ever heard about In the area is the spectacular bouldering...but alas, we left our pads at home.

So...are there any crags that are worth visiting in Leavenworth that are sport-oriented (though have rack with me so single-pitch trad climbs are ok too) that are relatively easy to find + don't have a brutal approach?

Careno Crag looked like a good option, but would love other suggestions as well as any camping beta - grades between 5.10- and 5.12+ are what we're after.

Thanks!

Tricerabottoms

climber

Tri County Fairgrounds

Aug 5, 2015 - 10:30am PT

Stick with Index

TacomaDome

Trad climber

Tacoma, WA

Aug 5, 2015 - 10:30am PT

Alphabet Rock has some 10s that are quite nice, roadside.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/alphabet-rock/105825051

The gem (for me at least) is Pearly Gates, but approach is about 45 minutes. Very clean rock, excellent routes, shady until around 2pm.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/pearly-gates/105790246

Careno is good.

JY Crag has some nice 10s, roadside. Air force crack is fun.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/air-force-crack/106278152

If you want real good sport (and trad) in the 10-12 range then maybe visit Index. Lots of good single pitch sport and trad, 5 minute approach.

Why limit yourself to just single pitch? Lots of good multi in the area.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Aug 5, 2015 - 11:14am PT

The best single pitch crag I know of in the L'worth area is Pearly Gates (about half way up the trail to Snow Creek Wall).

Not much for sport, but fantastic single-pitch crack climbing at the grades you're looking for.