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| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Hey guys hope everyone is having a fun summer! Just wondering if anyone that has done Uncle Ben's would care to share any helpful info. The route looks like a fun time and a great line for sure, is it as good as it looks?
I've got the topo from the Maddaloni guide, is that the best one available? Are the bolts decent or should we expect some rusty 1/4 inchers? Is the free climbing hard for a couple punters? Are we gonna die fer sher?
Thanks in advance, you Squamish guys are so lucky to have such a rad piece of stone to play on, and so much cool history on those walls. Can't wait to get back there and get vertical!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 20, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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Be careful.
Be very careful.
Twenty years ago, I entered into an online conversation about Uncle Bens, and it totally changed my life. A couple of innocent-seeming emails and...
BAM!!!
Change of marital status, change of country, change of everything in my life.
Just sayin'
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
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Thanks for the info Jim and the warning Ghost, just finished my first 'mini" wall in Squish and can't wait for the next one. Uncle Bens seemed like the next good thing to do and we got a good look at it over the weekend. Aiding in free shoes sounds terrible, i usually wear my tennies and free in those, how hard of free climbing are we talking here?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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Hey dude! You really should pm thekidcormier. He's done it within the last 3 or 4 years. I would expect you to find good hardware up there though, it gets done more often than some of the other aid routes..
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 20, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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Wait, it's not a test piece any more?
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2015 - 12:05am PT
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Thanks for the tip Mike, I remember reading a trip report of his on that climb, I'll try to dig it back up for info.
Seems like it's difficult to find info on some of the wall routes on the Chief. I guess there is not really much of a guide other than the Maddaloni one and what info I've dug out of my old Smaill guide and some topos in the yellow Campbell one. Seems like there are few aid climbers and many of the routes are seldom travelled. Is this still the case? Are routes like Humpty Dumpty and Ten Years After still reasonably equipped? Are those Hatten routes on the Pan wall still unrepeated? What about the stuff on the North Walls?
Compared to the well documented wall scene in places like the valley, Squamish walls are often obscure and mysterious. I find the history of them to be pretty fascinating.
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| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
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