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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale, UT
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
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Anyone know where one could find a list of routes they (Herb and Jan Conn) put up? I know they were active in Seneca, and then the Black hills in South Dakota. I've always been impressed with their climbing and id like to try and repeat all their routes someday.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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May 14, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
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You got to wear tennis shoes, and a 60' hemp rope!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 14, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
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Where the hell you been, porkchop?
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the museum
climber
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May 14, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
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the old Piana guide is a good resource and the new guidebook is too by Lindsey Stephens Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn.
the museum
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale, UT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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Hi all! I've been around Apogee, but not on the taco as much because I had a little girl (my wife did, technically, I just enjoy the fun of being a dad!) and I rebuilt my website and released my film about my 365 project and ironically, given the outcry (if you recall when I announced my intent to do that project in 2011)about how I would be stealing money and attention from funding research...I now am working in Type1 research and loving a different perspective--and proper health insurance for the first time in my life!
I haven't given up climbing but I have had to step back for a while--and now I'm getting after it again. I think that having a child made me really want to rediscover the magic to share it with her. That's partly why I posed this question about the Conn routes--I'd like her and I to climb their routes together as simply as possible. I have my own plans in the works to free moonlight and half dome and NIAD (not free) but those will be more for my own entertainment. It's not fun trying to sell climbing projects, so I'll just share what I learn and hope it helps others and if it's just meaningful to a handful of people that'll be just fine too!
I have missed the gang here and I'm hoping to post more frequently!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 17, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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The book referenced by the Museum is
Stephens, Lindsay. South Dakota Needles, The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn: Sharp End Publishing, 2008. ISBN 978-1-892540-56-0
$15.95. http://stores.sharpendbooks.com/south-dakota-needles-adventure-climbs-of-herb-and-jan-conn/
That's 240 climbs in the Needles. There's also (from Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jan_and_Herb_Conn);:
Herbie’s Horror - c. 1942 in Carderock, first climbed by Herb Conn, was one of the first 5.9 routes in the eastern United States.
Conns East and Conns West at Seneca Rocks, c. 1942.
Conncourse (5.8) - Cannon Mountain, NH on August 3, 1945 (the climb no longer exists, but it shares some pitches with very popular 5.8 Moby Grape route)
Mule Ear Peaks - Big Bend National Park, TX. 1940s
Finger Rock (5.8) - Santa Catalina Mountains, AZ. 1940s
Great White Throne - Zion National Park (3rd ascent), 1949.
West Face (5.7) - Agathla Peak, Monument Valley, Arizona. First ascent of the peak was done in May 1949 by Herb Conn, Ray Garner, and Lee Pedrick.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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May 19, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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I made the second ascent of the South Tower route back in the late 1950s, and was impressed with the Conn's abilities. But when I tried to do one of their squeeze chimney climbs I was expelled.
;>(
On the other hand, that drawing showing Herb stretching across to get on the South Tower was misleading for me, with long legs!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale, UT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
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Bump for the added points on my 8a.nu scorecard ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 19, 2015 - 11:31pm PT
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Mule Ear Peaks - Big Bend National Park, TX. 1940s
wow, would love to hear that story.
Bend is an amazing spot in the middle of nowhere practically. I'm surprised there isn't more effort to enable fixed anchors there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 20, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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Good luck getting them all if you haven't spent a couple of decades in the needles alone. BTW Bring big cams and big balls. Be willing to make a few "first ascents" along the way because you won't know where you are at.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 20, 2015 - 09:17am PT
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I could be wrong but I think Lindsey's book just tried to do all of their summits in the needles and not necessarily all their routes.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2015 - 09:54am PT
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If you are interested in the Conn route in the Needles then you really need to pick up a copy of this excellent guidebook to their many routes there.
The author did a fine and respectful job of researching, locating and documenting these amazing routes which is no small task.
Many thanks to Fred and Heidi at Sharp End for making this niche guide available. Please support them and Lindsay and buy a copy!
More on Herb and Jan here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1740864/R-I-P-Herb-Conn-of-Needles-and-Jewel-Cave-fame
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 29, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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The best story Jan had about Mule Ear Peak climb involved the one and only bolt on their route.
The approach involved much more than a day and halfway up they got shut down. Needing a bolt, they walked all the way back to the car and drove 80 miles to the nearest hardware store to buy a drill and eyebolt. She was impressed that it was still there when the second ascent party passed through decades later. She remembered the poor rock too.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 31, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
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One of the funniest bits in my interview with Jan involved her first visit to Seneca Rocks with Herb right after the war. They were in the road and absolutely delighted to find hundreds of pitons left for them to liberate and reuse elsewhere. She chortled when she surmised that instructors apparently told trainees to place a bunch in one spot before finding the next one and left them all in place.
These war effort pitons changed the course of American climbing history by allowing these two wonderful but beyond frugal climbers to explore and climb hundreds of wild summits all across North America.
The Face of a Thousand Pitons took a hit for Herb and Jan!
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