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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 12, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Les Alpes Maritimes
In the Maritime Alps of France there’s at least 75 different defined climbing areas, mostly sport climbing, each area with one to twenty different secteurs. A well known and internationally recognized climber connected to the area is Patrick Berhault.
The Alpes-Maritimes department is surrounded by the departments of Var in the southwest, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence in the north-west, Italy and the Principality of Monaco to the east, and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.
Its topography is very mixed. As its name suggests, most of the department is a constituent part of the overall topographic Alps - including the Maritime Alps - but it also has the distinction of being a coastal district with its Mediterranean coast. The coastal area, urbanized and densely populated, includes all the cities in an almost continuous conurbation from Cannes to Menton, while the larger but sparsely populated mountainous area is fully rural with the exception of the three large resorts of Valberg (created in 1936), Auron (created in 1937), and Isola 2000 (created in 1971).
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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In the area around Nice you find some of the best sport climbing crags in the Maritime Alps at La Turbie, Peillon and St. Jeannet.
La Turbie
At La Turbie there’s around 450 sport climbing routes, graded from 4 to 8c.
There’s a lot of easier climbing at Secteur La Loubiere with its around 60 routes from grade 4 to 7c, mostly grade 4 (12 routes), grade 5 (15), grade 6a (11), grade 6b (9), grade 6c (9) and 7a (8).
Climbing at about the same level, but without the easiest routes, you find at Secteur Peripherique Ouest with its around 45 routes graded from 5 to 8a+, mostly grade 5 (7 routes), 6a (8), 6b (13) and 6c (6).
The hardest climbing you find at Secteur Big Ben with its around 40 routes, graded from 5 to 8b+, mostly grade 6c (7 routes), 7a (8) and 7b (9). There’s also 11 routes graded from 8a to 8b+.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Peillon
At Peillon you find seven main secteurs and around 150 routes graded from 4 to 8c.
Easier climbing you find at Secteur Baus Roux and Secteur Chez Pierrot.
At Baus Roux there's around 30 routes graded from 5 to 7b, most routes graded 5 (7 routes) and 6a (14 routes).
At Chez Pierrot there's around 20 routes graded from 5 to 7c, most routes graded 6a (6 routes) and 6b (6 routes)
The hardest routes you find at Secteur La Grotte with its 34 routes graded from 6a to 8b+, seven routes graded 6c, eleven routes graded from 7a to 7b and nine routes graded from 8a to 8b+.
La Grotte topo: http://www.philippegatta.fr/peillon.htm
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Saint-Jeannet
At Saint Jeannet there's around ten different secteurs and close to 500 different routes graded from French grade 3 to 8.
At Secteur La Source alone you find 160 sport climbing routes. 38 routes graded 4, 49 graded 5, 29 graded 6a, 38 graded 6b, 26 graded 6c, 27 graded 7a and 11 graded 7b. Secteur La Source is popular, and the easiest routes, graded 4 to 5b, are very polished.
At Saint-Jeannet you also have La Grande Face with multi-pitch routes.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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Alpes Maritimes by Marie-Annick Piat in Vertical 99, 1997
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 12, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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Where else can you bivouac at the likes of the Negresco and send 8b by day?
Oo, la-la, c'est la vie!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Apr 12, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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I'm guessing that area could get hot in the summer but would be sunny and pleasant in the winter when the rest of Europe was cold and gray?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 12, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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355 euro for a standard non-sea view room when we where there in 2008. And, no, we didn't stay there. Did have a nice two bedroom apartment in town for a surprising 60 euro per night (mid September).
Ahh...fun.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 12, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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I did a solo traverse of Tsantalina 3600m in 93. Up the south face, down the north.
Unroped across the glaciers. Young and dumb and full of cum.
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Degaine
climber
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Apr 12, 2015 - 11:56pm PT
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FYI - Tsanteleina is in the Northern French Alps, above Val d'Isère-Tignes, in the upper Tarentaise Valley, and relatively speaking, not very close to the Maritime Alps. That written, a spectacular summit.
Here is a photo of Corno Stella - an adventure climber's paradise and along the ridgeline that leads to the summit of Mount Argentera (3297m and the high point of the French/Italian Maritime Alps):
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 13, 2015 - 04:43am PT
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Brought back fond memories of my youth when I spent a month there climbing in many of the areas mentioned, in the Spring of 1971, with John Bouchard,
who was an exchange student in Nice.
John didn't study much.
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