Birdbeak notes for open-sourcers

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2006 - 02:15pm PT




The only thing missing here is how to grind/mill the taper on the beak itself (Walt designed and created a great jig, which is now out there somewhere)
Howie

Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
Sep 22, 2006 - 02:28pm PT
D4, no idea on design dimensions that will/won't work as I do not aid climb but the material/HT looks great for the application.
Best of luck.
Howie.

p.s: how's the hammer head coming along?
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
Also note that the heat treat specs on the original blueprint are way off. Use the spec as prescribed to Phoenix Heat Treatment.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 22, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
Great stuff, John! Awesome! The Phoenix page is great, as I have bunch of untreated beaks that I came across a while ago. Maybe this will give me the incentive to finally make them usable.

Thanks for the great info!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 22, 2006 - 03:08pm PT
John,

Thanks for opening up your archives on all this stuff - it really is a fantastic part of our history and is priceless as folks revisit this gear...

I believe Theron has set up a way to mill the edge with a couple of passes.

Theron, just shipped you the WLS beak quote....
hardman

Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
Sep 22, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
john what's the quench? just water or was it a oil mixture quench?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 22, 2006 - 05:50pm PT
John,

Do you think the A5 Birdbeak design is better then the BD Peckers?
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2006 - 07:43pm PT
The quench depends on the material. I'd have to refer to the engineering books, but if you are doing home heat treatment, you can probably use an oil based quench and not have problems. Water is a severe quench and can cause cracking for some materials. But again, I'd do some research prior. The heat treaters will know more.

Birdbeaks work well. Inspired by Bridwell, who had been using cut-off crack'n'ups. I found the peckers to be too short for general purpose.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 22, 2006 - 08:57pm PT
$0.65/beak? How much to swage a loop? Maybe another $0.20? And how much did they retail for? $7 or so? Nice margin. Too bad the beak market isn't [wasn't] as large as the bra market.

Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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