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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
David
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Typical spoiled Bishop resident. I guess I don't blame you for assuming perfect warm, blue sky climbing weather follows you wherever you go. That's what you're used to out there in nirvana.
Anyway,...Corrugation Corner is cool but whenever in that area at the Leap, the exposure on Traveler Buttress(100 feet to the left) just bekons a little louder than the more claustrophobic corner. I bet the arete on Traveler might see a little more sun this time of year.
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stopper
Intermediate climber
SF, CA
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people always say "Corrugation looks like it goes up some lame gully. How can it be any good?" Turns out the second pitch has some of the most wild and exposed climbing at the leap. The "5.7" moves are psychologically 5.12. and it is better than Travelers because Traveler's turns to easy 4th 250' from the top while Corrugation stays interesting till about 80' from the top. Corrugation is SUSTAINED for its grade. Most intimidating 5.7 I have climbed. Good thing that the belay locations generally don't allow the belayer to see you shaking up there on lead.
Key problem on this line is... ah... waiting in line. It would be nice if there was more beta on easier climbs near the start of the route. You know, a way to pass time as you wait for the 34 parties in front.
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David
Novice climber
Mill Valley
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Well... I guess we could argue that one all day. They're both fun routes.
The best moderate long route at the Leap is probably a link up of Surrealistic Pillar and either Traveler or Corrugation. Climb the direct start(my personal favorite at the Leap - fantastic 5.10+!!) of Surrealistic Pillar then another 2-3 pitches of fun 5.7 dike hiking on Surrealistic regular. Then move a few hundred yards over to the first pitch of Traveler and climb that 5.8 pitch to Main Ledge. From Main Ledge climb either Corrugation or Traveler for another 3-4 pitches. In the end...sort of feels like you just did a 7 pitch route at the Leap.
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jim
Novice climber
modesto
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how bout The Line? i think thats what its called...been a while but I had a darn good time on that route...also hospital corner..
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David
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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How is Hospital Corner? Looks sort of intimidating.
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jim
Novice climber
modesto
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watched a friend wrestle for weeks with a route called main line? i think....not sure about the name but an impressive route anyways, for you guys who like the hard stuff.
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John Black
Intermediate climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 11, 2001 - 11:46am PT
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My votes for best routes for-the-grade at the Leap:
5.6 East Wall
5.7 Bear's Reach (but Corrugation is a close second)
5.8 East Crack (Haystack is good too, but not very sustained)
5.9 Fantasia (but the Line and Traveller are both awesome as well)
10a Hospital Corner
10b Magnum Force
10c Roofer Madness
10d ? I don't think I've done any 10d's
11a Powerlust (bolted line paralleling first pitch of Corrugation)
11c Mainline (super classic un-Leap-like off-fingers crack put up by
Kauk and Bachar back in the day)
Snowed today above 7000' and more coming tonight. Winter is here folks; time
to train indoors or if you're blessed, hit Bishop and Vegas.
john//
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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