Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 17, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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There are some pics of Tommy on fixed lines putting in a bolt.
Presumably they aid thru, and then work out the cruxes and necessary sparse fixed gear.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 17, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
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Right, the 2 pitch Dike Traverse is new, and connects from Mescalito
into the Dawn Wall.
Mescalito there is heading into a blank headwall, where a long rivet ladder connects to the Bismark. That headwall was not going to go free.
So Tommy and partners came in from above and swung around on fixed lines, looking for a way to get around the headwall.
The Dawn Wall traverses lower down, on another rivet ladder (also too steep and blank to free).
But apparently the dike has holds here and there, with only a few blankish sections.
So Tommy looked at the holds and tried some of the moves in the blank sections while dangling from the fixed lines, and thought he might be able to get it to go free. So he and partners placed some bolts (you could say on rappel, but more like on ascenders).
It still took several years of work before he was able to link the moves and lead them free. p15 in 2013 and p14 in November 2014. Kevin hadn't linked either one, but managed during the push.
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Thanks Clint
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 17, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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The route couldn't be free climbed, except for all the abuse (pinned out/ drilled) it had already seen beforehand, but let the kids have their fun, and think it means anything.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 17, 2015 - 11:31pm PT
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Kevin hadn't linked either one, but managed during the push. ....badass.
Both of these guys have cage fighter grit. My guess is that it will be years before it's really understood just what an undertaking this beast of a route really is.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 17, 2015 - 11:39pm PT
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In the long run, all of these posts to ST don't mean anything, either, right?
It's kind of nice to think that after this dramatic, almost decade long project has ended, the Dawn Wall is still there, essentially the same as it was even before Harding and Caldwell arrived, and the same as it will be in 10000 years. Who knows if people will be climbing on it then, but it will still be there.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 17, 2015 - 11:53pm PT
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That's deep dude.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jan 18, 2015 - 02:08am PT
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yeah i'm all teared up and sh#t over a piece of glaciated granite,
granny needs dentures but that can wait,
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 18, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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^^ That video is awesome!
More, please...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Rap bolting on El Cap....shameful :-(
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 18, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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I dont really care how a bolt gets somewhere. In the past we got a lot of crappy bolts because people felt obligated to do everything the hard way...
You trying to impress me with your bolting? Do it free solo I guess.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 18, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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More, please... [Click to View YouTube Video]
Working on p14 (Dike Traverse I), 2013 (Episode 7).
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Kevin discusses how working the pitches helps move them towards being able to redpoint.
He mentions they have spent 300+ days on the wall from 2009-2013. (Episode 6)
Episodes 8-10 are when a storm came in.
Episode 11 was in a prior post - Tommy led p15.
Episode 12 - they stop for 2013 - ice coming down, etc.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 18, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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Rap bolting on El Cap....shameful :-(
Yeah, cause standing in etries is so much more manly.
All due respect....it ain't a 5.11 slab route Swanson. Could've never been geared without aid ladders.
Nice clips Clint, thanks.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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Pitch 11 on the Reticent Wall comes up from the left and traverses right on the dike on the Free Dawn Wall for 20 to 30 feet. Having stood in aiders on quite a bit of the route (Mescalito, New Dawn, Reticent, Tempest). I'd say the free climbing is frickin impressive, totally improbable, and super inspiring. It's definitely taking the highly finesse worthy climbing on steep, steep granite to an all new level. Way to guy Tommy & Kevin!!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 18, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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^^ If that ain't a Gold Stamp, what is?^^
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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