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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 17, 2014 - 08:05am PT
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Good Morning to all, I would ask if this forum, attended by experienced mountaineers and climbers (for me the number one of the forums that I attend, even though I do not know the language and I'm so sorry, I would like to ask a favor: I would love to know the description this route: Direttissima ( Super-Direct of Russians to the north face of the Eiger, one the Great Kirkpatrick tried to climb in the winter, but for various problems, he and his companions went back here in Italy I can not seem to find any description of this very difficult climbing. Please if some friend could tell me where to find the description of this climb, I'd thank Thank you all very much.
Greetings to all.
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There's also the video
The VIDEO of the attempt by Andy Kirkpatrick, Kain and Neil Ross Chelton on the way the Russian Eiger.
When speaking of baptism of fire: in March 2013, English climbers Andy Kirkpatrick and Ross Kain decided to bind together the expert of big wall Neil Chelton for groped to repeat in the winter because of the Russians on the north face of the Eiger. Fifty shots with difficulties up to A5, opened in the winter of 2006 by the Russians Dmitrienko, Arkhipov, Malygin and Tsyganov who chose a direct line in the middle of the wall, between the streets and the extraordinary Harlin Direttissima Metanoia open by Jeff Lowe solo in 1991 .
The British trio started with food and material to remain a fortnight on one of the most inhospitable walls of the Alps, but after 20 shots - climbed in four days - their attempt was stopped due to the high difficulty of the shot key, the 'rising temperatures and the risk of falling rocks. The three have wisely chosen to abandon the attempt and the street remains unrepeated, and this is not surprising: the crux of A5 was considered "super serious" and according to Kirkpatrick Street "has a minimal amount of spit for a line so smooth ".
Kirkpatrick and Kain are well used to the cold (in December 2008 Kirkpatrick attempted solo street Harlin on the Eiger, while in February this year has tried the winter on the wall Trollveggen in Norway), but definitely feels more Chelton his comfortable on long routes granite of El Capitan in Yosemite ... in fact, and here we join the baptism of fire, this was his first winter!
http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=40743
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 17, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Excellent video!
"It's not that bad really,...just...impossible..."
Classic Brit!
Edit: I see that in your future Vitaliy. Unless you hang around Yosemite too long, then you'll be too addicted to sun and warm stone like the rest of us. Your alpine balls and desire to freeze your ass off and be scared at the same time will melt away.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 17, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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The proliferation of routes shouldn't amaze me, but it still does. When I started climbing in the mid-1960's, getting up the original route was an outstanding achievement, and one that eluded some of the best alpinists.
John
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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WOW!!!!!!!!! Great Vitaliy M. !!! THANKS A LOT, just what I was looking for (How to get there, even if in Russian) but with the translator is not difficult to understand the description Route (report on) I was never able to find anything !!! Thanks again!
And thanks to all the people who answered.
Many Greetings to all from Italy
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SUPERTOPO U.S.A = Forum World number ONE.
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P.S:
I'm done now to read the description of climbing: Climbing an incredible difficulties, (This Escalade was never repeated) Many congratulations to these Great Mountaineers Climbing Russians! GREAT CLIMBING and GREAT ADVENTURE Chapeau !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 18, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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With the amount of sh#t they get for fixing ropes on 8000 M peaks etc, I think their accomplishments can't be treated as sh#t even by those who got golden axes for own alpine style ascents. The technical difficulties of the routes the Russians do is extremely hard, so it seems at least. Did you see the route they did on K2? Like holly f king shiet, HARD aid on a big wall above 7000 M...let's see that thing ever get a second ascent alpine style. Even with a carefully drawn topo it would be incredible if someone did a second ascent of the route in any style...or the wall on Janeau. At times I wish I had a few years of experience of climbing in Russia. Maybe it wouldn't make me much better at free, but my aid climbing would likely be more suitable for big walls in greater ranges.
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 01:17am PT
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Hello Mr. Vitaliy M.
Certainly, however, the Russians are great climbers mountainers, although with fixed ropes, made masterpieces Ex:.
The Direct to K2 (the Route currently more difficult to K2)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-k2-russian-west-face-direct
Then the North face of JANNU
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP08/climbing-note-jannu
And of course many others, are, in my humble opinion, over-mountainers great climbers, is people hardened to the cold and suffering, however, because to complete these masterpieces, we must not only be good, also suffer greatly from the cold , the dangers, difficulties, and more, you have to be very Hard men.
Kind regards and best wishes.
VIDEO JANNU NORTH FACE :
http://vimeo.com/12483150
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