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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
karmaseattle
Trad climber
wa
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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A buddy and I are going on our annual week long Man Camp (MC) trip and are planning on heading to Leslie Gulch and its surrounding environs. To clarify, the primary purpose is to hang out away from our spouses and children for a week, talk smack, drink beer, take photos and get in a little climbing. Previous MCs have been to COR, Tieton in Washington, Leavenworth, Smith, and J-tree. We've chosen Leslie Gulch primarily because it's likely to be uncrowded, it looks like stellar scenery and it's withing about 10 hours of Seattle and Portland. The climbing looks like it will be secondary on this trip...
With that in mind, are there any moderate routes for a couple of old guys who haven't trained regularly in a few years? I've found info on the harder chipped stuff, but nothing on the more moderate side of things. I saw a post on another website stating there was a bunch of stuff, but you'll need to be able to wing it, which we have the experience to be able to do.
Any info/advise would be much appreciated.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Bring pepper spray in case you encounter any big foot....
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Have you posted your request on CascadeClimbers.com?
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WBraun
climber
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the primary purpose is to hang out away from our spouses
Instead they're going to go see Leslie ......
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I really don't have a clue, since I have only driven up Leslie Gulch after an Owyhee River float trip----but I don't think moderate climbing & Leslie Gulch, are terms that are commonly used together.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Leslie Gulch is a spectacular place and well worth visiting even if you don't climb - it's like Smith Rock times 10 but the quality of the rock is not as good. There's plenty of scrambling to do but almost nothing in the way of moderate climbing. Evidently Tony Yaniro et al. weren't interested in moderate routes. Also check out Succor Creek State Park. As you're driving down the gulch, a road takes off to the left right in the heart of the area with the biggest spires. If you walk up the side canyon on the left, just before that road, (43.294106, -117.250977) there are a few easier climbs on the south-facing side, if I remember correctly. If you want to enjoy a bunch of fun moderate climbs, both trad and sport, you should stop at Spring Mountain, which is between Pendleton and LaGrande and not far off of I-84. There's free camping in a beautiful setting, but no water or bathrooms.
http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/spring_mountain_guide.html
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Da-Veed
Trad climber
Bend Oregon
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Last I heard all bolts and permanent anchors have been band, which I agree with. It is in relatively close proximity to Boise, and the BLM doesn't want another over bolted, over run crag like Smith. Don't get me wrong I love Smith, but still want to persevere Leslie Gulch for its natural beauty. That said there are a few route out there.
If you are in the area for a while go down to the Three Forks of the Owyhee, there is a great 'warm springs' about two miles up river from the campground.
Watch out for ticks, seriously.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Wow....what a cool looking place.
This kind of beta is ST at its finest.
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sween345
climber
back east
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Leslie is pretty cool, but if you see her sister Elvira I suggest you head the other way. And your little dog too.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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From what I understand, the reason why fixed anchors were banned is because Leslie Gulch is in a BLM Wilderness Study area, not because "the BLM didn't want another Smith Rock".
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karmaseattle
Trad climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2014 - 08:12am PT
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Thanks for all the input! It looks like for the climbing portion of MC, we'll check out Spring Mountain.
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Da-Veed
Trad climber
Bend Oregon
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Yes, they did not want cliff side erosion, visible anchors, over bolting, and chalk marks, and they are trying to preserve the natural ecosystem of the area.
So yeah they don't want another Smith.
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Kung Phu Panda
climber
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I have friends who go boulder there quite a bit. So I'd pack a crash pad or two if possible. Even if you don't boulder, its a super nice sleeping pad;)
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Leslie is an interesting place. Went there a few times when I lived in Boise. BITD there were lots of 100% manufactured routes. I have a picture somewhere of Yaniro hanging from a rope and creating holds with a gas-powered drill. Good times!
Spring Mountain, on the other hand, is great.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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In Leslie Gulch, most routes are indeed manufactured, fixed anchors were indeed banned due to its status as a wilderness study area, and there are no protected moderates. The moderates are mostly grovels up grungy unprotected slots (calling them chimneys would be too kind) and along ridges. They're fun as hell, if you're into that sort of thing.
Camping is down at the Owyhee rez which is populate with the large power boat set. There's a really cool hot spring about a 5 mile hike along the shore to the south that accessible at low water.
If you really want some man points on your trip, go deeper into the Owyhee tablelands where you'll find rock untouched by the hands of man. That is, if you don't mind poison ivy, have a rockstar 4 wheel drive rig, and your grapes aren't prone to being raisins. That place has got the goods, but it's not self-service, mind you..
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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