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cwilliams
Trad climber
Brisbane
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 2, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
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Hi. I'm not sure if this has been suggested before. I found the rap method suggested in the SP manual a bit difficult. The set up in the picture seems to work well in the living room. Originally (on the cliff) I tried a munter on a biner where the ATC now is - this did not work due to rope twist. But I envisage using the ATC does away with rope twist (characteristic of munters), would take less than a minute to set up on the cliff, would allow complete speed control, and would not burn a hole in your backside or break hand.
I think the ATC could be set up about 1-2 feet above the SP. Where my thumb is on the quickdrawer, connect this to your belay loop (you could use a short prussik and biner instead). My hand is on the break strand in the photo.
Thoughts?
Regards,
Chris (Brisbane, Australia)
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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take the silent partner off
(clip yourself in first)
and just rap with the air traffic controller.
if you are doing multi pitch,
the silent partner should just
stay at the high anchor.
rap with an atc,
and then follow your pitch with a mini-traxion.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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I find my system to be simple, fast, and very effective.
It is very easy to fine tune the speed of the rappel and if you let go for whatever reason (a rock struck you and you faint) the SP still catches you.
I just clip a biner through one leg loop (so to keep it at a distance from the SP) and tie an italian (munter) hitch through it. Please let me know how you like it if you try it out! :)
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overwatch
climber
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I am with norwegian...all that other stuff is too complicated and I don't like cleaning with the sp on.
Except I use a gri gri to clean. If I come off with slack in the rope I would rather not fall on teeth
To each his own
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Well.. just give that system a try when you happen to be about to get down, once. It doesn't take much time and you may discover that you like it.
I of course also tried the other way around (that is, disconnecting from it and rapping the usual way) but I really think this approach is faster and also safer (the less maneuvers I have to do, the less the chance to do anything wrong. I follow the 'keep it simple' principle whenever possible).
But!
It is also true that I only climbed sport routes so far (trad ones are rare here, everything's bolted) so cleaning is easy.
Well the truth is that I'd really like someone to try that system and review it! ;-)
Cheers
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overwatch
climber
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you might change your mind if you were running it out past half rope on multiple pitch climbs
Anyway if you like it roll with it
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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True story, never climbed a pitch longer than half a rope, thanks for reminding me to tie a knot at the free end of the rope. So many people had accidents and even died for such a simple mistake and still I don't religiously tie a stopper knot all the times. I should even on 10 feet pitches, just to become maniacally used to it.
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overwatch
climber
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I don't think a stopper knot on the end of the rope would stop the rope from running through the silent partner. It might. Never tested it
The backup knot, whether a fig of eight or clove on a locker is what I rely on during rope stretcher pitches.
Hey we have our own private thread going
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cwilliams
Trad climber
Brisbane
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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Thanks for your tips...
Overwatch - you're right...simple is best.
Feb - yours is simpler, but do you get any rope twist from the Munter?
Norwegian - thanks. I'll try your multi pitch method. But one I was also going to try was along these lines: rap down the pitch using the method in the photo (with an autoblock on the break strand), cleaning as I go; at the base of the pitch, shove all cleaned gear and excess rope in a gear bag and tie bag to end of rope as weight, to top rope back up the pitch using the SP in top-rope mode. As backups...not sure yet...I won't try it till I have the backups sorted.
Regards,
Chris
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overwatch
climber
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Weight on the rope below will tighten the clove around the drum and you are carrying all the gear weight back up the climb.
You might read Hans Florine speed climbing book
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overwatch
climber
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I meant the gear weight from cleaning the pitch. I don't know what other people are doing but I use a gri gri and pull the slack through until it feeds by itself or use ascenders. Maybe the sp feeds itself too with enough rope weight below it. I will have to try it.
Trying to pull weight attached to the rope end up a featured pitch sounds like stuck rope time. not to mention beating up whatever you are dragging.
I top rope with minis on a weighted line.
It would be nice if some other users chimed in with their methods
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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I haven't experienced any significant twist but yes, I will try an atc-like device for sure. The munter doesn't require any additional tool though, just a biner and there you go!
I am going to try whenever I'll have the chance (heading to Munich for a week on beer and sausages and no climbing right now haha).
Thanks all
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overwatch
climber
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Stzzo
Yes some slack does accumulate at times when cleaning free, that is why I prefer the gri gri plus it makes it simple to hang to remove gear if necessary and to lower out on traverses
I have a methodical approach to multipitch climbing that works pretty well for me...probably similar to norwegian but I only use one backup loop at a time, similar to studly
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I use the grigri for rapping also, leaving the Silent Partner at the top of the pitch(unless single pitch climbing). Then when i reascend the pitch i clip the grigri to my harness and use it to self belay as i re-climb the pitch. The only drawback is you have to pull the rope thru as you climb, but its quick and safe and simple. And you can take a hang when you feel like it.
I personally find the SP a little sketchy to rap and clean on. I also dont reccomend using a munter on the rope as it puts twists in the rope, and you really want your rope as unkinked as possible for proper feeding thru the SP.
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cwilliams
Trad climber
Brisbane
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Thanks studly and overwatch. Yes I can see how the gear and excess weight in a gear bag would likely create too much tension on the SP clove hitch, preventing feed through. I recall now that when top roping single pitch, the bag I use as a counterweight is on the ground (not suspended in air as it would be on a steep climb)...as per the SP manual. So I guess for multi pitch I have to change to a gri gri or ascender to reascend the rope. Thanks. Chris
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