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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
ziesel
climber
Austria, Kufstein
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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Hi! My father got the chance for a short-dated US-trip. Therefore he wanted to know how the current climbing conditions in Yosemite Valley are. Any information is appreciated! Thank you!
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Conditions are great. Check NOAA weather for day to day weather.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 02:54am PT
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just got back from a weekend in The Valley...
certainly climbable, weather can change though... today overcast most of the day but sunny when I took off at 5:30pm
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Mar 10, 2014 - 06:09am PT
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Between the forest fire smoke and the blizzard conditions, one can hardly breathe or see 10 feet.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
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we use the local weather reports and the web cams to decide if we want to trek up there... a 2.5 hour drive for me...
coming from Austria you have to know that we're in the winter/spring rain pattern, so it varies week to week... this last weekend it was supposed to rain, and it did a bit last night.. so if you are flexible than spring is always a good time...
there is wet rock, but there is a lot of dry rock too!
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ziesel
climber
Austria, Kufstein
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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Thanks for your help! I really appreciate your advice. What would you say are good routes to get to know the rock and which are quite sheltered from weather? My dad and his friend have never been in the Valley before so they want to get used to the rock there first. Thank you!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 13, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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To select warmup routes, take the grade they normally climb at,
translate to the 5.0 to 5.12 scale, and subtract 2 grades.
So if they normally climb 5.10, warmup on a 5.8.
Also pick one which uses familiar techniques (usually this means avoid offwidth, chimney and maybe hand cracks).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
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what level are they climbing at?
what is their experience?
the list depends on that, at least for setting reasonable expectations.
My experience is that Yosemite seems to be very slick compared to other places, and less forgiving of sloppy technique, especially edging skills and crack skills.
Then there is the whole "aid game" thing... and the intimidating steepness, length and blankness of the walls.
And it is really huge! with lots to do... but there is lots to do, so dialing in on what they would like to do, and what they may be able to do would be helpful.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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