Ten Days After

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

bigwalling

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2003 - 08:14pm PT

I heard this had it's lead bolts replaced? True or False?

Also same thing with Skull Queen?

jake

David

Trad climber

San Rafael, CA

Aug 18, 2003 - 08:19pm PT

From ASCA site:
Skull Queen - All lead and anchor bolts replaced (11/2002). ASCA: 46 replaced

Ten Days After - 1-3 3/8" bolts at all belays. Many poor quality lead rivets remain.(2002). ASCA: 4 replaced

Surely someone else will have more recent beta.

Kevin

Social climber

Oak-town

Aug 20, 2003 - 03:20pm PT

skull queen is totally bomber-

all the anchors are 3 fatties- no gear required except at the top of 12( link 12 and the 4th class- dont go right to the tree- go all the way to the unroping point)

all the ladders are 3 rivits then a fattie with a hanger-

there is also a rivit on p 7 to avoid most of the the wide stuff-
bring a 4.5 or 5 or do some fun chimney-

there are 2 rivits on 11 that are real skinny, and have way thin wire hangers fixed to them- not sketchy, but just the only "old" hardware on the route-

this was as of august 1st

Mike

climber

Orange County CA

Aug 20, 2003 - 04:00pm PT

Rivet on P7? I didn't noticed it either time I did the pitch. It's not on the Reid or ST topo either. Is it a new rivet? That section of mandatory wide is not 10b - maybe one/two 5.8/9 moves to bomber hands and easier ground. I think the 10b rating is for the whole short pitch free.

Thanks for info, Kevin.

Mike

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Aug 20, 2003 - 07:14pm PT

vroom vroom...

Bill

climber

San Francisco

Aug 21, 2003 - 01:23am PT

There was a bat hook hole (or two?) on that wide pitch (7) on Skull Queen when we did it about 5 years ago. Sounds like someone filled it with a rivet.

TDA is a fun route. There were a lot of bad Zamacs on it when we did it a few years back, but the climbing was really nice. I'll have to go back for Electric Lady Land someday.

Mike

climber

Orange County CA

Aug 21, 2003 - 11:25am PT

Thanks Bill.

m

None

climber

San Francisco, CA

Aug 21, 2003 - 01:24pm PT

"There was a bat hook hole (or two?)"

Two. Similar to the ones on the wide pitch on Southern Man. I recall mentioning these to someone who had done a much earlier ascent and watched him wince over it.