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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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These tools come stock with the T rated Mixed pick. The mixed picks are all i have. I have only done 3 days with these but one of those was @ The lake. Yesterday at a different venue with a long WI 2+ slab followed by a WI4 curtain was PDFC (pretty Damn Fcking Cold) and these tools were awesom. I hear some folks add the Petzle pick weights? No way would I add pick weights. These tools climb ice just fine without the weights. My only complaint performance wise is they do have a tendency to over drive and get stuck more than my Quarks. I feel pick weights would simply exasperate this problem. In fact the stock mixed picks climb ice so well I am afraid to try the ice pick. Also these tools can be a bit tricky topping out on bulges. Alden Pellet suggested that I remove the upper trigger as he noticed that was what was getting in the way on bulges and it should not be nessicary unless climbing M10 and harder. I just did that and replaced it with my standard hockey tape. have not tested this mod yet.
My only remaining concerns are the tools are so light that I wonder how they will perform in a full contact mortal combat situation where you need to beat away a bunch of crud, candles or 3/4 in sheets of ice over snow etc. I had a day on 20 Below Zero Gully 111 WI4+ where I needed to excavate a lot of crap on the 2nd pitch to get good screws. The X Dreams were barely up to the task yet they climbed so well that good screws did not seem quite as Vital. The ice picks w/ the hammers may be the ticket for those days but realisticly few folks will switch out picks for specific climbs.
Kind of silly INMOP to have hammers on the ice picks but no way of pounding pins with the rock/ mixed picks?
These tools definatly do Not like grade 2 ice. They do ok on 2+ and good on 3 but suck on 1 and 2. keeping the Quarks in the quiver for easy gully solos.
Great tools Yes! Game changer? Not unless I start leading 5+.
Right now I consider myself a solid 4+ leader who has managed to grovel up the occasional 5. Takeing into account that on ice 1/2 grades are actually full grades if I turn into a solid 5 leader that ocasionally grovels up a 5+ then I would call The x dreams a game changer, Untill then they are just really great tools :)
Nick Goldsmith
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
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I might pop my Lake cherry soon
eeeeee
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
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Sweet!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2014 - 10:19am PT
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Such a trip seeing how much tools have changed over the years. Sure would be fun to try em all out. Looks like you had a good time with those.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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Oh yea! the biggest game changer for me is the screws. the tools are great and all but the definative factor that gets me up climbs that BINTD were for elite climbers only is the modern screws.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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tradman, it also isn't right that these punks can come home without bruised knuckles like us knuckleheads did BITD.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
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totally awesome that i don't beat the crap out of my hands as much. I still bruise my right hand occasionaly hammerfisting the screw hanger desperatly trying to get one more turn out of it without resorting to chipping away ice with a tool.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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nice pix Nick...
nice picks, too
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Jay S
Mountain climber
Silver Gate, Mt
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Go for the ice picks!
They are super sticky in brittle ice. It is also nice to have the little hammer head they come with. It is hard to drive pins with them but it is possible.
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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
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