Fish Crack

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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic

enjoimx

Trad climber

SLO

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 9, 2013 - 12:37am PT

Just tried it, got spanked. Soft 5.12 my ass. Do most people go up the slab or go up the gully on the right and bust a move left where the crack starts? Going up the slab seems scary but I have seen pictures where the first piece is in the crack proper! Wow

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Nov 9, 2013 - 01:10am PT

Most people I've been with traverse in from the right. I've done it both ways but did not do the slab start onsight. It's at least .10+ and you're going to eat sh#t if you screw it up. Definitely the better start though.

And yeah, it's kinda soft for 5.12. Definitely not .12b like the newer guides say.

WBraun

climber

Nov 9, 2013 - 01:16am PT

And yeah, it's kinda soft for 5.12.

Don't believe it.

Most all of ya would never have a chance if ya climbed in those roller skate shoes Henry climbed it in.

Those stiff green choonard horrible things.

Sure now ya all have fancy gear and sticky shoes.

Big difference ......

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Nov 9, 2013 - 02:05am PT

It's locker, feet don't matter ya old coot :)

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Nov 9, 2013 - 03:35am PT

Needs pics

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 9, 2013 - 03:42am PT

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Nov 9, 2013 - 04:51am PT

I flashed Fish Crack in the fall of 1988 and on sighted Crimson Cringe an hour later. Dave Shultz did give me some beta about the crux of FC.

Yes, I did it with sticky rubber (Fires) and descent little cams as well but the hardest thing about that route for me was getting a good cam above the final knob stance. After dicking with the gear for a bit I finally settled on a flared placement, and gunned for the good locks above, and the diorite knobs. My left index finger was numb for two weeks after that.

I did not lie back off to the right of the crack but instead jammed it straight on. I can still remember the sequence of finger locks off of the stance......get gear, thumbs down left, thumbs down right, thumbs down left, reach into thinnest jam thumbs up right, crank through to a good jam with left, get the knobs, don't blow it.

Overall seemed doable . 5.11a/b to that last good knob stance, shake, gear, and go.